Nepal

Mar 14th - Mar 28th 1994

Monday 14th March 1994

Home to Nepal

Left Aberdare at 1:45 in glorious sunshine en route to Hampton. Good journey. Tea with Michael who took us to Terminal 4. Met by Saga rep - slow checking in - plane a Jumbo - every seat full - mostly Indians with masses of ‘hand luggage’. Service good - dinner at 11pm - David has menu. Tried to sleep - short naps - flight good - breakfast at 4:30 - landed into sunshine.

Landed at Delhi early - everybody very laid back - masses of officials all seemingly doing very little. Waited a long time for flight to Nepal. Met others in group - only 7 walkers - 2 men & 5 women. 

Still here at 2:50pm - hot & sticky - officials for Indian Airlines very official - body search, bag search etc before allowed through to departure lounge - all loose batteries kept and handed in to captain of plane to be returned in Kathmandu. David’s bag - emptied - apples carefully inspected. 

Plane small when compared with Jumbo - rather like an airbus. Sari clad air hostesses - very serene & beautiful.

Breakfast 213 Rupees

Dinner 298 Rupees

Arrived in Kathmandu at 5:20 - spectacular landing over the city - much larger than expected - lots of cars & roads plus acres of ‘patterned’ rice fields. Bus ride through part of city with guide who welcomed us with a ‘holy scarf’ - blessing given usually by holy man and outlined some of the customs eg spitting during fasting. We saw lots of small ‘shops’ - selling variety of goods.

Hotel excellent - is very welcoming, room first class - lovely, lovely bath. Dined in Italian restaurant ‘alfresco’ - excellent meal - much enjoyed.

Wednesday 16th March 1994

Soaltee

My birthday - a beautiful day - with glorious sunshine with pleasant breeze. 

After a good night’s rest & breakfast - went to Kathmandu to visit beautiful holy shrines. Walked through Kathmandu - quite a culture shock. Very busy city - all in awe of shops selling everything - meat, veg, fruit, bicycle materials.

After a quick lunch back at the hotel we went to Patan where we saw more shrines, palaces & temples. Again a very busy city - we visited a carpet factory - all Tibetan women - set up for refugees. We went to a factory - working in wood - one in metal & precious stones. All very friendly and welcoming. We saw 64 Kites.

In the evening I had a surprise birthday cake & present from Anne the Saga Rep & we all had a meal together in the Nepalese Restaurant - good company with a traditional band.

Thursday 17th March

Pokhara

6:30 am - Having breakfasted and completed packing left Soaltee at 8:15 for airport. What a crush - people of all descriptions going to cities in Tibet’s other valleys. Eventually left at 10am by bigger aeroplane than I was expecting belonging to Air Nepal. Flight took 30 mins up the valley into the Annapurna Range - fantastic mountains all snow-capped peaks. 

Pokhara was hot - glorious sunshine - very busy - a much newer city than Kathmandu. Very new in some parts. We went by minibus to the lake - crossed on the ferry - manpowered - to Fish Tail Lodge. 

Fish Tail Lodge was beautiful - a single storey building surrounded by beautiful gardens - lovely, lovely flowers - beautiful butterflies and birds. It was only a short stay to leave some luggage - back across the lake by ferry and by minibus to our first camp lunch - in the shade beautifully served by the Sherpas - lemonade, cooked potatoes with spring onions, cheese & tomato sandwich. This was followed by tea and a banana.

The Sherpas packed up everything and the Porters carried the massive loads up the mountain to the first camp. We walked uphill in the hot sunshine and partly through woodland and our first stop was to visit a Buddhist Monastery! We went on further - beautiful views over the valley and the outskirts of Pokhara - still climbing up - and we arrived at the camp set up by the Sherpas. It overlooked terraces of mustard, a wooded area and another valley. 

We had another short walk before tea and then walked again with David uphill to a holy shrine. I have used the ‘tented facilities’! Tonight should be an experience in the sleeping bag in the tent. Dinner is being served at 7pm - no washing beforehand.

Dinner was quite good - soup, vegetables with spices, popadoms and banana fried in butter followed by tea or coffee.

It was quite enjoyable and we chatted afterwards.

Friday 18th March 1994

Nepal

After a night punctuated by howling dogs and chattering Sherpas we were woken at 6am with tea - I had chocolate. Dressing in the tent was a little difficult but we managed - a bowl of water was delivered at 6:30 to complete our toilette! Breakfast was at 7-7:30. Porridge, toast & jam and coffee.

Off we went down the mountain with our Sherpas and Porters. We crossed the river plain where they grow rice and barley and we saw White Egrets and Brown Herons. We then walked into a village where Edwina who hadn’t felt well returned with her husband to Fish Tail.

We continued slowly upwards through forests and terraces - splendid trees - Chestnut, Coral Bean, Bamboos, Freesia species - used as a _______ - we saw a _______ Eagle, Egrets, Parakeets, Monkeys, Ants. We passed orange-red houses some with thatch and some with corrugated roofs, cultivated gardens and everywhere working women, herding in the sheep, goats, carrying loads of stone, clay, manure, fodder, firewood - you name it they carry it.

We lunched on a hill overlooking the terraces, a farm with cows, sheep & goats. It was a vegetarian lunch - beautiful stuffed potatoes & mixed vegetables followed by a delicious tangerine.

And then we were off on our way - again up hill - through villages on a road - very rough. Pestered by children asking for sweets or a pen. They wouldn’t take no for an answer but we didn’t give in. After more uphill we passed above the almost dry river bed in the valley and then to the camp set high on a hill. Kalikasthan - again masses of children this time selling drinks of all descriptions. 

Shortly after we arrived we had some rain but it cleared up in time for dinner of popcorn, delicious soup, veg curry, mixed lentils and fresh pineapple followed by rum and coffee. We talked until 9pm.

Saturday 19th March 1994

Nepal

Had a restless night - very close - no sunrise over the mountains but fine. Breakfasted on Cornflakes, chapatis & jam and coffee. 

Set off at 8:30 with walk overlooking Lake Begnas and Rupa. Story attached to these! Lots of up and down through villages of brown and white houses with well-tended gardens and livestock. Lunch at Majthana - village of Gurung and Brahmins - low caste people - more up, up. Saw butterflies - Common Tiger, Tiger Eye. Some Rhododendron - sun came out but no view of snow-clad mountains.

Climbed up very steep hill to village of Libyani - bought water - then went to camp. Forgot to mention lunch again - well served - pizza delicious with chips and cauliflower - followed by apple. Shower of rain at tea time.

David missed out on dinner - Chinese type of meal - delicious soup, pineapple for desert, Millet wine from Singh - not very nice - good for muscles - better to have rubbed it in than drunk it. Very disturbed night - humid - also guard chased away, with much commotion, a Mountain Leopard that was after a Buffalo which had wandered to the camp.

Sunday 20th March 1994

Nepal

No sunshine - grey day - set off early after breakfasting on porridge & pancakes. David feeding on Imodium. Set off at a cracking pace - some up, some down - above & on terraces - then down steep descent to a village where we had lunch - not very appetising but tangerine delicious.

After a rest we watched a hen with her chicks and the visitors to the local shop - we started up the dreaded slope - 2,400 feet - all stepped - we did it in less than an hour - with much puffing and panting - very good going so Singh said.

David treated them all to a drink at the local shop - very cheap for Sprite, Coke etc. We were accompanied all the time by thunder rumbling in the distance heralding the rain. We trekked a little further and arrived at the camp - tents mostly  set up before the storm broke. Lashing rain, more thunder, wind and lightning - it was violent while it lasted. We were slightly wet inside the tent - but the sun came out and we saw the superb snow-capped mountains facing us - Fish Tail & Annapurna 2 & 4 - with the sun on them - with the clouds in the valleys drifting down leaving the fields & terraces above  - it was glorious - I felt that I was at last on the top of the world.

The camp - soon ship-shape despite the rain - was on a superb site overlooking 2 valleys and with the sun coming out, so did the village children.

The evening meal - again superbly served considering the conditions was followed by true Nepalese entertainment provided by 2 local villages - they sang & danced most gracefully. We were garlanded with flowers, provided with rum & local fire-water and under a star-lit sky with a glorious moon - we had a fantastic evening in which everybody joined in - sing, danced very gracefully & we four mountain women clumped around to the Hokey Cokey. It was almost midnight when we finished - with a traditional gift to the 2 villages of rice flowers and money which they were going to use to provide a rest house & sports facilities for the children.

Monday 21st March 1994

Nepal

After much up, up, up and down, down, down in blistering heat through magnificent scenery led as ever by the imperturbable Singh and accompanied by the effervescent Sherpas - we arrived back in civilisation and said good-bye to our fantastic Sherpas.

The day started with a magnificent sunrise over the Annapurna - it really felt like the top of the world. We were transported to Fish Tail Lodge - where we ‘wallowed’ in the luxury of running water and a bed. We showered off the dust of 5 days in the hills before setting off for a shopping sortie into Lakeside - travelling again across the river by ferry.

I felt rotten - did a little shopping and I went to bed. David dined with Margaret & Joan - who later succumbed to ‘sun’ sickness - very debilitating. Up & down all night - felt foul. David did the packing.

Tuesday 22nd March 1994

Nepal

Up with the sunrise - magnificent view of mountains & lake. Still a bit wobbly. Set off at 8:30am on what was a nightmare 5.5hr journey over non-existent roads - in process of being rebuilt with Chinese money - through magnificent scenery & daub houses with dirt & dung floors - no furniture except bench & table - metal dishes - cleaned with mud and washed off - people sitting in the shade with animals - Goats, Cows, Buffalo, Chickens.

On the river banks families washed themselves, their clothes and their animals. Great activity on roads - lined by open sewers in the villages. The workmen on the road were Nepalese earning 75 Rupees a day. 

Arrived in Chitwan in time for lunch - I abstained and then we visited the Elephant farm where they housed and trained the Elephants - Margaret & Vivian tried Elephant ‘jumping’ - up by way of the trunk. Then we were off on an Elephant safari - 2hrs - very exciting saw Swamp Deer, Spotted Deer, Sambar Deer, host of birds & butterflies, 8 pairs of horned Rhinos and mothers with calf, Wild Boar and Leopard in a tree.

After our ride we had a quick shower & saw a slideshow on the park. I had some potato soup for dinner. Repacked with a little bag for the jungle camp - we have lost the bottom of David’s pyjamas!

Wednesday 23rd March 1994

Nepal

Up at 6am for jungle walk to see birds. Ossie escorted us and a very good guide pointed out many birds and Leopard tracks. After breakfast we set out again by dugout canoe - 4 trekkers and Ossie on River Rapti.

We saw many birds & crocodile on route to tented jungle camp. Boat ride was followed by a mini-trek and a jeep ride. Arrived at jungle camp at 11:30 to be greeted by smiling Singh and tea & coffee.

After lunch went off in open Landrover on safari. Saw Rhinos, Indian Bison, Crocodiles - Marsh & Mugger - Wild Boar, myriad of birds, butterflies & dragonflies, Hog Deer, Sloth Bear, Peacocks galore.

Returned to shower and had typical Nepalese meal with fruit salad. Returned to our tent with beds & mirror - very up-market compared with trek. Slept fitfully - heard Tiger roaring but did not see it. Up with the larks & bird song at 6:15am

Thursday 24th March 1994

Nepal

Beautiful day started with shower in toilet block - had good breakfast & cleaned teeth in jungle - must be a first. After group photo - set off on foot through jungle - silence only disturbed by birds - this followed by a bumpy ride on a Bullock cart to Tharu village - across what seemed like a desert under a very hot sun - now I know how the early settlers in America felt - I would never have survived!

One of our Bullocks felt frisky and lurched towards an unsuspecting female & almost dislodged us all into the road. David’s boot was christened by super-fresh Bullock manure - very, very smelly!

The village was very primitive - originated in 12th Century - Indian woman who married servants fled north from India - very simple, hard life - speaking own language - houses without windows, separate bedrooms - no furniture etc. Babies - 15 days - upwards, girls marrying 14-16 and have 6 to 7 children. Men immune to Malaria, girls have Sickle Cell immunity. Very, very hard life - self-sufficient - grow crops, keep Cows, Goats, Sheep, Chickens, Ducks, Buffalo. Men earn money to buy material & utensils.

More cart riding to river - crossed in dugout canoe to Jeep - whisked in dust back to Lodge. More welcoming cold drinks. Bought t-shirts & lounged on veranda of chalet in cool shade serenaded by birds and again visited by butterflies.

 

Lunch was of soup, steak & vegetables and fresh fruit. I had a veg lunch. Sun very hot - now lolling in the shade.

In the afternoon the intrepid four went on another Elephant ride - Joan & self this time in front. We saw Deer, Rhino and one very young Rhino, Civet Cat - very rare - chased a Leopard but failed to see it. Arrived back late - but had time to shower before watching and participating in traditional dancing! Diner by candle-light, packed by candle-light and went to bed.

Friday 25th March 1994

Nepal

Awoke with the dawn - much bird song and trumpeting Elephants - coffee on lawn - saw herd of Deer crossing river and Elephants out collecting breakfast.

Left after our breakfast at 7:45am by Jeep to bus and up through Chitwan Valley - very fruitful - bread basket of Nepal. Journey along roads washed out last year when rained for 43 hours non-stop - very hairy in parts and not helped by maniacal Indian lorry drivers. Much activity ‘repairing’ roads - all done by hand - whole families working digging out stone, breaking, mixing mortar, taking stone out of river. From high up it looked like a ‘chain-gang’.

Journey - despite road - better than last time. Arrived at Soaltee at 2:30. Said good bye to Singh and Ossie - promised not to forget them and to keep in touch.

After wash & quick lunch took a taxi to Kathmandu to shops - bought 2 waistcoats, 2 silk paintings and then the storm broke - rained heavily - came back to Soaltee in so-called taxi - 3 wheeled vehicle - just as wet inside as out - the driver was as mad as a hatter.

Had tea & biscuits - delicious. Shopped again in hotel - we are living in luxury waited upon by smiling, gentle young Nepalese men - eager to please - with immaculate uniforms.

We dined - the Famous Five together - I had my first meat - chicken - preceded by soup. David had steak. We couldn’t afford the wine which was between £30 & £40 a bottle.

Saturday 26th March 1994

Nepal

I am writing this sitting by the pool - surrounded by a beautiful flower-filled garden and an immaculate, just brushed, green lawn - in the sunshine.

The rest of the party have flown off to view the Himalayas - not for me & a few of the others looked decidedly green this morning. Dreadful night - room beautiful, bed just lovely but the noise from next door was unbelievable - TV turned up full.

Up at 6am to get everybody out by 7:15. An aeroplane - a light one - has just flown over - I wonder if it is the crinklies on their way. I spoke too soon - cries of ‘Annie’ heralded the return of the party - flight cancelled because of low cloud.

Decided to visit Kathmandu - caught service bus to New Road - many shops closed because of the Holi Festival - lots of laughing - throwing of water and red, yellow powder - all very friendly. Did some shopping in the sunshine - lots of things to buy. Bought paintings on canvas, paintings on silk etc. Walked around - five piled into taxi back to Soaltee.

Lunched on sandwich - off again to Bhaktapur - City of Devotees - very old - with beautiful wooden carved windows, doors, balconies etc. People live very close together - lots of children - very young. Lots of youths throwing powder - David got painted. Heavy rain brought walk to end. Back in bus to hotel.

Tea in lounge - more shopping - bought beautiful silver bejewelled Elephant - treated ourselves. Ended evening dining alfresco with Joan, Margaret & Vivian - lovely evening - delicious food, gorgeous desert - couldn’t afford wine at £30 a bottle. David settled bill and so to bed.

Sunday 27th March 1994

Nepal

Home tonight - had my first good night’s sleep - slept until 5:30. Up again with sun for breakfast at 6:30. The rest are trying the Everest Flight again. I had a long, lazy bath with my book and finished the packing. I think that I will now have a walk in the garden.

Sat in the sunshine for an hour and then strolled around. The party arrived back at 11:30am from Everest Flight - most enjoyed saw Everest - but visibility wasn’t as good as it was on the morning in the hills when we got up early to see the dawn.

Left Soaltee about 12 to visit house/hotel of owner of Kathmandu Travel - very hot in coach. Sat in a delightfully cool garden surrounded by priceless wooden antiques - very beautiful. Removed from broken down buildings and restored and incorporated into house - traditional brickwork. 

Had coffee & snack before leaving for airport. No problems - just slow. Mollie & Bernard had tremendous problems with ornamental goat’s skull - ‘priceless antique’ they claimed - but thousands on sale in market everywhere.

Spent last Rupees on Sprite - shared between five - left almost on time for 1.5hr flight to Delhi. Sat with Vivian & David. All Sagas together except Sylvia who sat with smokers. Flew Air India Airbus - plane full - chiefly locals - Nepalese and India, some true trekkers.

Arrived in Delhi 6:30 - temp 87F - brilliant blue sky. All very well managed by Saga rep in Delhi - took us all to Hotel Centaur where Margaret & Joan were going to stay the night before flying to Goa tomorrow - looked plush - beautiful, spacious reception area - but rest very basic - loos awash with water - restaurant nothing special - self service - but food adequate.

Left at 9pm - beautiful velvet night - full moon, clear star-filled sky. Delhi airport heaving - but rep made our check-in easy. Everything sorted by 9:45 - now we have to wait until 12:30am for flight. Flight on time - jammed in like sardines - every seat taken - again all Indians going home or on holiday.

Flight never-ending - uneventful - had breakfast with the dawn. Met by Michael at Heathrow - a lovely surprise.