Kenya & Tanzania

Jul 8th - Jul 24th 1998

Wednesday 8th July 1998

Home to Nairobi

Dawned bright & clear - up with the larks. Planted some lettuce and parsley seeds.

Margaret took us to Cardiff at 12:45. Coach - little late - stewardess a charming, talkative Irish lady. Leaving from Terminal 4 - dined where we dined last year en route to China with Margaret & Joan.

Plane left on time - flight uneventful thank goodness. Plenty of leg room - food palatable - dinner at 10:30pm, breakfast at 4:40am Aberdare time. Landed in Nairobi 7am Thursday local time.

Thursday 9th July 1998

Nairobi

Met at airport with fellow travellers - all well travelled!!! Hotel excellent - £200 a night if staying independently. Walked to supermarket - warned at hotel about ‘boys’ who steal anything but no bother. Met up with Kaoni at noon - arranged a tour for PM. Nairobi - busy, dirty, traffic horrendous. 

Lunched with Bridget & Bob. Visited museum & railway museum in afternoon. In museum beautiful watercolour paintings of flowers and people from various tribes. Painted by Joy Adamson. Weather disappointing - cloudy & cold - not brought suitable clothing - ah well - live & learn - fleece where are you? 10 degrees compared with Cardiff 20 degrees - it is however Winter here.

Dined in hotel - very good food - not advisable to go out of the hotel at night unescorted!! And so to bed.

Friday 10th July 1998

Samburu

Up at 6:30am for early start at 8am. Travelled in mini bus with Malcolm & Francis from Bath and Frank & Ann from Northampton - seasoned visitors to exotic places in search of birds!! Journeyed along good road initially. Driver called Nicholas - very experienced. Saw man birds - made fellow Knowledgable Travellers very excited.

Lunched in a beautiful hotel set in lovely surroundings - Kentrout Grill - food good - soup & chicken, not cooked - & delicious vegetables. Sweets also delicious & coffee excellent. Walked around the ground - beautiful & varied flowers - watched trout being fed and then off we went.

Passed through many towns and villages - shanty towns - but nearer Samburu - traditional beehive houses surrounded by fence hedge. Countryside varied - near towns & villages much cultivated - labour intensive - sweetcorn, pease, maize, potatoes, coffee etc - women workers!! Lots of idle men in towns & villages. Usual demands for gifts etc selling wares.

Crossed the Equator en route. Once left main road travelled along ‘track’ - what a bumpy ride - pot holes etc - bumped all over the place - but well worth it because once in park - magic. We saw Grant’s Gazelles, Oryx, Gerenuk, Zebra, Impala, Ostriches, Crocodile, flocks of Guinea Fowl, Yellow-necked Spur Fowl, loads of Baboons, numerous birds and a magnificent herd of elephants - about 15 - led by a magnificent bull with long, perfect tusks - eye to eye almost.

Arrived at Lodge. Fabulous - saw a huge crocodile being fed - at least 100 years old and finally, while at dinner, saw a Leopard taking the bait on a platform set up in the tree across the river. And so to bed.

Saturday 11th July 1998

Samburu

 

Up at 5:45am for early morning game ride. Absolute magic. Air was balmy - a superb morning. Saw numerous birds - Maribou, Story, Yellow Billed Stork, Eagles, Vultures Bee Eaters and many other brightly coloured song birds. Mustn’t forget - Secretary Bird - a single and a pair.

Elephants were a joy - herds and isolated groups. One group having an early morning wallow in the river. They were relaxed and enjoying life! We saw a magnificent Leopard and we followed it into the bushes. Of course there were Impala, Oryx, Water Buck, Mongoose and Dik.

Came back for breakfast at 09:30am. From chalet see crocodiles basking in the sunshine and Maribou Stork looking for its lunch. David watched tribal dancing - I sat in the sun, read and watched birds and monkeys.

4pm off again - glorious afternoon - bright sunshine with cooling breeze. Crossed river to other side of park. Saw many exotically coloured birds - White Headed Baffle, Weaves, Red Bee Eater - exquisite - Black Shouldered Kite, Rosy Striped Bush Shrike, Vultures, vulturine Guinea and Hooded Guinea Fowl, Gibilway (sic) Bird and many others. Thank goodness for twitterers.

Found and watched 2 herds of Reticulated Giraffe - beautiful jigsaw markings - Silver-Backed Jackal, Water Buck, Ground Squirrel, Velvet Monkeys, Elephant - of course, Impala, Thompson Gazelle, Grants Gazelle, Zebra, Gerenuk and, last but not least, a Cheetah - lazily sitting and lying in the long grass before moving off in search of supper. Our driver and guide Nicholas is very knowledgeable and extremely patient - stopping, starting and reversing as we ask him to.

Dined at 8pm and enjoyed it all. Malcolm and Frances very talkative. Ended with a slideshow about Samburu Tribe - completed the day for David who went to see Samburu dancers.

Sunday 12th July 1998

Samburu to Mount Kenya Lodge

Restless night - couldn’t get to sleep - very hot despite fan. Up at 6:15am - out by 7:30 on way to Mount Kenya Lodge - what a ride - our turn for back seat. Bumped our way for over 100 miles - journey took almost 5 hrs with one or 2 stops - pestered by children selling bananas etc - didn’t buy.

Arrived at Mt Kenya Lodge - 7000 feet up in Mount Kenya - much colder - met by Blue Sykes Monkeys - very cheeky - will steal anything. Room appears to be cold - hot bottles provided!! Ominous sign. (Later - view from bedroom over looking water hole - thought going to be cold - but not at all - loved every minute of it)

Meal very good - asparagus soup, steak etc fruit salad. Sat on balcony overlooking water hole - visited by 

Bushbuck - young and parents,

Buffalo,

Egyptian Geese

Wader,

Waterbuck,

Mousebirds,

Yellow Crowned Canaries,

Squirrels,

Giant Forest Hog family - mum, dad, baby,

Crowned Eagle which feeds on monkeys,

Augur Buzzards

Spent afternoon with the fellow travellers - looking over water hole. Yet another family of Giant Forest Hogs - male, female and 5 babies - family of Water Buffalo wallowing in water. Some stayed at water hole all the afternoon - others paid frequent short visits. David viewed water hole from bunker at ground lever. Had a superb view of everything.

Dined very well - company & conversation excellent. Called from coffee to see Rhino - mum & baby - visiting water hole.

Forgot to mention saw Hamerkop, Silvery Cheeked Hornbill, Mountain Wagtail, Parrots, Red-Eyed Doves, Cinnamon Breasted Bee-Eaters. Very interesting Pigeon - I saw it first!! A late twitcher!

Monday 13th July 1998

Mount Kenya Lodge to Lake Elementaita Lodge

Later start today - 8:30am. From bedroom - 42 Buffalo in water hole. Passed from Mountain region - through Aberdare Mts and Aberdare National Park. Changing scenery from mountain forrests to plain scublands - villages of shanties - towns very busy - still mostly of shanties. Some big towns being developed - people variously dressed - traditional and other ways - lots of children going to school. Markets selling everything - vegetables, fruit, pots & pans and hand cloths, flip-flops made from old tyres.

Stopped at Thompson’s Falls - quite spectacular - pestered by shop owners selling their wares. Arrived at Lake Elementaita Lodge - set in beautiful gardens with hedges of Bourganvillea of every colour - very spectacular - room 16. David has his mosquito net!!! After a good lunch walked around gardens in hot sunshine - very relaxing. Saw some birds - surprise, surprise - superb Starlings, Mousebirds, Red-Eyed Doves, Purple Grenadier - this was very beautiful - a wren-like bird and many others.

Sat on a patio in front of chalet before having tea on veranda prior to leaving on bird-watch walk. William - who led the walk - talked about the history of the lodge - owned by Lord Cole - 1st Irish settler in area - died and sons took over - sold out in 19… to group of ‘land managers’ - nationalisation. Sold patches of land to local people - now being bought back by company to increase size of property - conservation area - vegetation and all animals Masai problem because graze and water cattle on land - as they have always done - aim to resettle them - stop them being nomads. Excellent walk to lake - many birds on salt lake - Flamingoes, Spoonbills, Pelican and Little Geese. Ended at memorial with ‘sundowner’ drinks and eats provided by lodge - smashing. Very good meal. Excellent service.

Tuesday 14th July 1998

Lake Elementaita Lodge to Tanzania

Restless night ready for 9am start of marathon journey. Stopped at workshop - wooden figures etc - didn’t buy. Countryside changing - then to outskirts of Nairoba.

“Carnivore” for lunch - late arrival because of bad fog. I went vegetarian - meat available lamb, pork, chicken, beef, ostrich, zebra, waterbuck, buffalo - carved - large legs at the table - all sat together.

Late start 2:45 - en route for Tanzania - lots of traffic. Again passed through villages - lots of people selling everything - looked very poor. Lots of Masai people - some in villages - others still nomads - herding cattle. Traditional dress - some with ochre on faces and carrying spears. (Saw some dressed all in black - faces painted white - recently circumcised - these in Tanzania)

Nicholas took us to border and passport control - pestered by Masai women selling everything - horrible. Said goodbye to Nicholas and transferred by David from Kuoni to driver - Bacteri? - and drove off - another 2 hours.

Arrived in dark at Mountain Village 7:45pm - very long journey. Village of little “huts” as bedrooms - typical shape - smashing mosquito net. Lovely shower after supper - ate very little - Malcom quite a character!! And so to bed - ready for early start tomorrow. Slept under mosquito net

Wednesday 15th July 1998

Tanzania

Up with larks - delightful view - lots of trees and flowers. In the distance the lake we are going to visit.

Breakfast was just OK - very late start - no courier - other bus had another puncture - not as well organised as Kenya. Briefed about safari - sounds brilliant if we ever get started. 

Off at last by 10am - stopped at curio shop to buy drinks - off again to Tarangire National Park - lots of Masai - those settled in ‘towns’ and ‘villages’ no longer nomads. Passed lots of Masai still living as did many years ago and dressed as before - chiefly red ‘plaid’ - long earlobes etc - women and men.

On safari in park before arriving at lodge - lots of birds - magnificent Fish Eagles, Egrets, Pelicans etc. Malcolm promised to send up a list - Rock Hyrax, Impala, Ostrich, Zebra, Grant’s & Thompson’s Gazelles, Masai Giraffe, Monkeys etc. Enormous Elephants in family groups - male made threatening behaviour towards us. Calves were lovely. Wildebeest, Mongoose - dwarf and banded - Baboons, Egrets and Zebra.

After lunch outside had afternoon safari - when our species list was made longer. It was wonderful and we ended up at a shallow river bed where we saw a troupe of Baboons, Saddle Billed Storks, Pelicans, Herons, Egyptian Geese - it was a super trip. Bucari - our driver is very knowledgeable - especially about birds - very helpful. Dined as usual - late to bed.

Thursday 16th July 1998

Tanzania

 

Disturbed night - early on - rustling on table - thought it was David - turned out to be a Squirrel Mouse - type of animal - light brown with long tail - it was attacking the Strepsils! It had 2 goes so I shut everything up in the suitcase!!

Early start - 7:30am - safari in park - saw Elephant, birds, deer (2 types), Giraffe, Monkeys, Baboons and a Lion & Lioness - she was on heat and chasing him - walked down towards us and passed van without a glance.

Left Tarangire en route to Ngorongoro - horrendous journey on dirt track - mist on mountains - travelled along west rim of Rift Valley to craters - lunched in Lodge overlooking crater - sun came out briefly. Left at 2:30 heading for Serengeti - passed herds of cattle with Masai - traditional dress etc and villages with huts made of mud, dung and ashes - lots of women with babies. Road horrendous - stopped and started looking at birds - too numerous to name - but remembered animals in Serengeti - Giraffe, Gazelles (2 types) Topi, Wildebeest, Kanego, Zebra, herds of Hyaena, Dik Dik, Wild Boar and Silver Backed, Hippos in water. Arrived at 6:15pm at Seronera Wildlife Lodge Serengeti - absolutely shattered and dust covered.

Signed in for balloon flight - 5:30am tomorrow. Wallowed in a lovely big bath - felt 100 times better. The bird watchers had a super day because they saw birds they hadn’t seen before especially Frank. Malcolm also knows a lot about the animals so this helps us - we can now distinguish a Grant’s Gazelle from a Thompson’s. 

Room pleasant - not palatial but adequate. Lots of people here especially French & Yanks - loud as usual. Went to bed early ready for another early start.

Friday 17th July 1998

Tanzania

Today was the balloon flight. An early start was necessary and we had a call at 5am for a 5:30am start. Annie was already up. Tea and coffee at reception before getting in the Land Rover for a 45 minute drive to the take-off point.

We started in darkness for a dawn take-off. On the way we saw a Reedbuck in our headlamps - an uncommon sight we were told. Both pilots were American and both were in our Land Rover and were very informative.

At the take-off site the balloons were partially inflated. We had a briefing from our pilot on getting into the basket - feet first and lying on your back with bent knees. He also briefed us on what to do if we crashed. As he spoke we heard a lion roaring in the bush. He told us there was a pride of about 18 lions nearby.

We took off at 6:45am with 12 in the basket plus the pilot - it was very smooth and soon we climbed to 300ft. We then flew over the Serengeti for over an hour - floating along at about 14mph. He operated the burner to take us up to 1000ft or to drop to about 4ft - brushing the grass.

In flight we saw a Bat Eared Fox, Caracal Cat, Warthog, Topi, Zebra, Silver Backed Jackal, Hippos, Elephant, Waterbuck, Hyenas, Wildebeest and many, many birds. When at the top level the birds would take off in front of us as the balloon approached them. There were Vultures, Eagles and many more.

We took the landing position at about 8am - similar to take off - lying on your back and knees up. The landing was very smooth - smoother than a plane in some ways. We got out and everybody was very excited. It was an absolutely marvellous experience and not to be missed. We have had so many such experiences on this holiday - each different and each wonderful.

After landing we were served with well-chilled Spanish Champagne - Cordon Negro Freixenet. After 2 of 3 glasses and more photographs we went for our breakfast in the bush. We washed our hands in warm water and Imperial Leather soap then sat at a table laid for 26. More Champagne, orange juice, tea or coffee and a cooked breakfast - bacon, eggs, beans, tomato, sausage and mushroom - this after we had had fresh fruit, pineapple, pas paw, watermelon. After breakfast we returned to the Seronera Wildlife Lodge at 10am.

On the way back we saw Vultures at a kill. Joe, our pilot, thought that it was a rabbit killed by a Tawny Eagle which was then chased away by the Vultures.

The day was only just beginning and we then went on a wildlife drive at 10:30am.

We saw, in the very dusty condition, but who cares? Topi, Zebra - there are hundreds of them here - Wildebeest - they are still here in their thousands and haven’t finished migrating because of the late rains and the lush pasture. Warthog - two were fighting possibly for leadership of the pack. 10-12 Waterbuck; Rock Hyrax - timid, caring creatures who are relatives of the Elephant. Many herds of Elephant - in one herd was the smallest calf we have ever seen - it still had the baby hair on it. A pair of Lionesses resting in the shade. A pair of Lionesses stalking very patiently a small herd of Wildebeest and one Lioness on a rocky outcrop which may have been her den; Baboons; a family of rats; Blue Monkeys feeding on seeds in the grass; a Masai Giraffe, and a family group of ten Zebra crossing our path in their strict pecking order. There were also the multitudinous birds of all colours, shapes and sizes.

The lodge - to which we returned at 1:45pm for lunch - abounds with wildlife. Baboons - very intrusive and will come into your room, monkeys, Grants Gazelles, Rock Hyrax, Bats, Lizards and many, many birds.

After lunch at 2:00pm Annie is lying down exhausted and I’m writing the diary - I think that the adrenalin is still flowing after the balloon flight. At 3:30pm we go on another game drive.

Like David - this morning was a once in a lifetime experience - fantastic. This afternoon again a magical experience - we travelled across the long, rolling plains of the Serengeti - beginning the lose their greenness but still with enough to provide food for the animals. 

The plains seem to go on and on forever - covered in parts by enormous herds of Wildebeest mixed in with herds of Zebra. When they migrate the Zebra lead the way because they have good memories which the Wildebeest don’t have and they also warn the WB of predators. We saw them walking in single file with the Zebra in the lead.

We saw magnificent family groups of Elephants, Masai Giraffe - darker brown in colour than the RG and with irregular patches, lots of Grants & Thompsons Gazelles, Hyena, Warthogs - very ugly - Long-tailed Mongoose, masses of beautiful birds with lovely names - eg Yellow Rumped Seed Eater. Another fantastic day - different experiences - although basic pattern of game drives the same - but no two are the same. 

Dinner passable - African dancing to finish off evening - very energetic!! A group of 4 men and 4 women and a small group on the tribal drums, xylophone!

Saturday 18th July 1998

Tanzania

Woken up overnight by Baboons on the roof! Another early start - up at 6am for a 6:30 game drive - cold to start - but soon saw a fantastic sunrise and very soon warmed up.

Started with Hyena eating its kill and then in Hippo pool about 18-24 Hippos slowly waking up and doing some ‘stretching’. The birds were up and some were about - large Crowned Hornbill - red beak & throat, lots of Vultures perched in the trees, Tawny Eagle, flocks of beautiful Fishers Love Birds - chattering away; Wildebeest, Buffalo, Giraffes, Zebra, Lion & 2 Lionesses and a lone Lion about 20 yards away - probably brother of other. 

Back to Lodge for breakfast - took an age - queued for eggs & bacon - coffee not bad - warming. Still no great supply of hot water - but room comfortable.

Left at 10:15 en route to Lobo Lodge in Northern Serengeti. Started off by visiting another pool - where the Hippos were having a lovely time watched by 2 Crocodiles - one basking on the bank and the other on a rock overlooking the water. Bakari told David not to go too near to the edge of the water!! On our way Wildebeest, Warthogs, 2 Lionesses stalking game and 2 Lions. Wildebeest appeared to be aware of Lions - kept looking their way. Lappet Faced Vulture - hooked tip to beak for tearing open hides for other Vultures to feed. Herds of Impalas and one herd of Bachelor Bucks waiting to move in on the leader. Woolly-Necked Storks; many Whistling Acacia Trees in which lay eggs that had had young - this tree contains more water than others and when Giraffes come to feed - ants attack them!!

Saw a pack of Vultures gorging themselves on a dead Wildebeest - stripped clean inside - bones were bare. Vultures of different types each with pecking order. Masai Giraffe, Klipspringer on rocks.

Back to Lodge for lunch at 1:45pm - waiter service - soup, pork, lamb, veg etc - tart for desert. Left at 3:30 after a heavy shower of rain - straight down, rod-like variety. Hyrax scampered for cover and huddled together for warmth as did the Swifts.

Lovely afternoon - saw Water Buffalo, Zebra and Wildebeest in a line, Impala, large spider in it web and on our return - a pair of Lions mating - paid no attention to us. Saw a second pair not in the process of mating - leave pride when mating because the other lions would try to mate with the female on heat - quite and exciting afternoon. Also saw many birds.

Super warm water back at Lodge - everybody washed hair stiff with red dust from game drives. Meal tasty but cold. David sampled Impala. Watched video about Cheetah in Serengeti and so to bed - wind whistling outside.

Sunday 19th July 1998

Tanzania

Up with lark  - 6:30am - Rock Martins huddled together for warmth - telling us something. After breakfast left at 8am for Ngorongora via Olduvai Gorge - a beautiful morning with bright sun.

The lodge very well blended in with surrounding rocky outcrop - from room beautiful view over the plain with Baboons, Giraffe, Wildebeest etc. On way Ann & Frank not feeling very well - flocks of White European Storks, army of Safari Ants marching across the road, 3 Bat-Eared Foxes -  a first for Malcolm & Francis, Ostriches, Topi, Deer & Impala. Masses of Wildebeest, a Silver-Backed Fox, Zebra at waterhole, Hippos, Blue Monkeys, a Cheetah crossing the road and heading off into the grass looking for its food, the Vultures finishing off yesterday’s carcus and 3 young Lions feeding on a recently killed Impala - one had finished with a bloody face and front paws stalked across the road to the shade before chasing off a Hyena - a second was having its fill while the 3rd waited patiently for its share. The Vultures were circling overhead ready for their pickings. Masai Giraffe etc.

Stopped at Olduvai Gorge for lunch - not good lunch - splendid view across the archaeological site. After a short talk visited the museum - showing some of the ‘finds’. Left in bright sunshine leaving behind some beautiful birds feeding on the remains of our lunch - bread, pancake.

On way back stopped at a Masai village - chief outside - collecting 6000 Shillings a head - he spoke good English, was 46 years old and had 10 children. It was very interesting - ‘houses’ of branches, mud & dung - low doorway - dark inside and very smokey - low headroom - 2 beds for 2 adults and 2 children and side ‘room’ for calves - the owner was cooking his tea - meat and beans - he wore Masai dress and a digital watch.

The young men accompanied by children danced and leaped - ground covered by dry cow dung. Selling beads etc - children were pretty but had runny eyes and noses. Saw 3 women who had been collecting fire wood. Chief will be a very rich man if he continues in this way.

Climbed up and into the mist and then down into Ngorongora Wildlife Lodge at 5:30pm. Super view from bedroom - overlooking crater - room quite chilly but shower hot. Very cold & damp in lodge - French hogging the fire in lounge. Meal passable - bed cold.

Monday 20th July 1998

Tanzania

Cold, damp morning - can’t expect anything else - over 7000 feet up - hope it will be warmer down in the crater - could be the highlight of the trip - who knows? Selected packed lunch - 2 pieces of cake, banana, orange and pancake - Oh for a decent cheese sandwich. 

Travelled with Margaret & Alan from Manchester - moving to Sussex near Bognor - very good company - retired teacher of IT etc and Alan an Oil Engineer. “Birdies” travelled together. Took almost an hour to travel by Jeep down into the crater. Driver called Cashani. Crater 10x10 miles with salt lake. More water this year because of El Niño.

Slow to start - Warthog & familiar Grants Gazelles, Haste Beast, Thompsons Gazelles, Hippos wallowing in lake, numerous birds, Pelicans, Greater Flamingo, Grebes, Crakes, Spoonbills, Yellow Billed Storks, Yellow Billed Ducks, European Great White Storks, Avocets and in and around lake. Silver Backed Jackals, Augur Buzzards, Elephant in distance in elephant grass, Crowned Cranes and chicks, 2 Rhinos in morning - mother and baby Rhinos in the afternoon. Kori Bustard (fewer than 20 Rhino in crater). Lions - male & female - less than 6 feet away - almost sleeping and another pair. Now Winter, some flowers - lots of tall dead grass - very difficult to see some animals. Herds of Zebra, Wildebeest and Buffalo (Cape) huge horns. One looked quite poorly limping, poor coat quality. Very few Vultures seen.

Lots of Jeeps in crater all doing something. Lunched in Jeep at picnic and comfort site - because area plagued by Black Kites which swoop down and steal the food. Must mention the Wattled Starlings and the Ox Peckers which perched in large numbers on the backs of the Zebra and the Wildebeest. 

I did enjoy the visit to the crater - but I expected the animals to be present in greater numbers - perhaps the low numbers were due to the cold winter weather. I’d love to see the flowers all out together in the Spring.

Back to Lodge for afternoon tea & coffee - civilised - a biscuit. Wallowed in a hot bath for half an hour - felt warm for the first time in 2 days! David fully recovered from slight attack of inconvenience - good evening meal - very hungry after light lunch. Sat by fire - warmed one side. Watched acrobats - very good.

Tuesday 21st July 1998

Tanzania to Nairobi

Restless night - tossed and turned. Up at 6am for 7:30 start. Very damp morning. First for breakfast - cereal, omelette, toast and vg coffee. David preferred to stay in bed. 

Drove down into valley from Ngorongora in mist - trees dripping with moisture. Passed isolated huts & villages. People out and about - gathering firewood, selling bananas - walking everywhere. Huts of woven sticks with the mud laid on, no windows, hole for smoke, no water, no electricity. Stone-Age way of life!!

Lots of children about - some very young. Main method of transport ‘sit up and beg’ bicycles. Masai women in traditional  dress complete with long earlobes with lots of bead jewellery - necklaces and earrings. Road very bump in parts.

Passed many young Masai boys, some looked very young herding cows and goats. Some houses very isolated - how do they manage - carrying water, collecting firewood etc.

Stopped at Mountain Village for lunch but before that at African Heritage Centre - lots of things for sale - bought an Elephant and a picture which David admired - have to take care getting it home. Bought more things in Mountain Village - Bakari took us to border - he is 31 years old - married 2 years with baby daughter - immaculate today with beautiful shirt & tie.

From border travelled with other six in bus to Nairobi - another bumpy journey and we reached Nairobi in the dark and heavy rain and rush hour traffic - horrendous. Hotel Serena again - room beautiful - warm - clean - not at all smelly. Wallowed under shower and in bath. Dined with M, F, A & F - their 25th wedding anniversary. Meal disappointing, company good. Slept fitfully - too warm.

Wednesday 22nd July 1998

Nairobi

Another day - not raining - but very dull - don’t know what we are going to do with ourselves.

Breakfasted at 8:45am with Ann & Frank in the Mandarin - lazy breakfast - lovely coffee and lo & behold the sun is out - hot sunshine - sat by the pool - went through the bird list with Frank - lovely setting - garden well tended - washing leaves of low growing plants with large leaves - flowers superb and palm trees spectacular - flower decorations inside very beautiful.

Lunched by the side of the pool - smoked salmon croissant with cream cheese and chives - ate some salad!! David sat in sunshine for half an hour and had steak sandwich - make arrangements to go into the town on the bus tomorrow.

Thursday 23rd July 1998

Nairobi

A beautiful morning - very warm during the night. Had dinner with F, A, B & B - everyone else has left - Margaret & Alan for Mombassa, F & M for Mauritius, Mark & Sarah for home.

We had an excellent meal - soup, Motto Lamb with all the trimmings and delicious deserts - with a free bottle of wine which the hotel have toe F & A for their 25th - anniversary fitting end to a super holiday.

We packed most of our things last evening - one case of dirty washing - filthy. Very little left for this morning. Birds are up and about already - checked the list with Frank yesterday - seem well over 150 species but I don’t think I’ll become a Twitcher.

Guard still on patrol in the grounds - he told F & A yesterday very easy to get mugged - just across the road. He spends his time walking around the gardens - beautiful outside the hotel. Went in hotel minibus with B & B. At Spinner’s Web - bought wall hanging. David bought a belt. Visited other very nice shop in district where Ambassadors and other wealthy people live.

Back to hotel after visiting Craft Centre - beautiful silk carpets - sat by pool with B & B - had lunch - sat a little more - moved inside after changing for dinner - ready for the off at 9:45pm.

Left 2 people behind who weren’t in lobby. I carried picture - all very well packed by hall porter - all staff very helpful. Had almost 3 hour wait at Nairobi Airport.

Friday 24th July 1998

Nairobi to Home

Another superb morning - sun shining at 6am. Both of us slept off & on throughout the night - very warm. Declined dinner - but had a little of the breakfast - not very appetising. Eager to get home. Plane full, journey smooth.