Australia

Jan 27th - Mar 3rd 1999

Wednesday 27th January 1999

Home to Heathrow

‘A’ Day has arrived. David went to Spanish in morning. Margaret took us to Cardiff to catch 3:45pm bus to Heathrow.

Stayed overnight in Excelsior - dined rather well in The Carvery.

Thursday 28th January 1999

Heathrow to Sydney

Good night’s sleep - although room slightly cold - David turned off convector heater. Breakfasted in Carvery - not as efficient as waitress of previous evening. Did not over eat - fruit & toast.

Took Hotel Hoppa to Terminal 4 - there by 9:20am. Checked in hand-baggage - overweight. David had window seat. Time went very quickly - started to board at 11:30ish - Jumbo - did not leave until 1pm - en route for Bangkok - 10 hours away - where it will be 7:20am when we arrive.

Travelling with Australian Schools Rugby Team - who have been touring Canada & UK - some choice language to begin with - but series of late nights and too much alcohol soon took their toll and they went to sleep soon after we crossed the Channel.

Dined well - Veg Lasagna etc - bright sunshine outside about 3pm our time but soon became dark and by 4pm - middle of the night - will lose time going out because we land at 11pm our time and it will be 6-7am their time!! Lads had a talking to because of their drinking!!

More to eat - supper - 9:30pm our time - it was listed as breakfast and it was served prior to landing at Bangkok at 6:20am their time. We mislaid our boarding passes and by the time we had sorted ourselves out, it wasn’t worth leaving the plane to visit the terminal. Instead we watched the plane being ‘turned around’ ready to fly on to Sydney.

Some passengers left to fly elsewhere and new people took their places. The Singaporean young man was replaced by an elderly German lady who spoke no English apart from ‘too long’ etc. Journey seems never ending - had very little sleep. Have walked around a bit and now on Australian time 5:45pm - 6:45am our time.

Landed on time - met by Limo!! And a very nice Australian Tours rep who once worked in Hereford. Hotel - first impressions fine - super view overlooking harbour & monorail etc.

Saturday 30th January 1999

Sydney

Slept quite well - didn’t get up until gone 8. Breakfasted in hotel - caught monorail to Paddy’s Market - just like Pontypridd Market - walked back through park and caught ferry to Circular Quay - saw our first view of Sydney Harbour Bridge & Opera House.

Took Red Bus Tour of city to see some of the most important sights and after lunch walked across Sydney Harbour Bridge - David thinking about walking up - not for me. Walked through “The Rocks” - saw at least 6 weddings - walked up to Observatory Hill. Splendid views of harbour region. Walked back to the hotel - lots of blisters!

Dined very well in restaurant on Darling Harbour and went into Domain Park to see opera in open-air - Carmen - absolutely smashing. Walked back to hotel. City is very busy. Shattered!

Sunday 31st January 1999

Sydney

Not a good day - disturbed night - touch of the ‘runs’. Started on ferry and tour of Opera House but gave up and went to bed. David viewed Art Gallery and started on Aquarium - he dined alone!

Monday 1st February 1999

Sydney

A better day health wise - weather wet - went to National Maritime Museum - in Dymocks where we lunched met a man from Aberystwyth. Still raining.

Visited rather splendid Queen Victoria Building - saw cricketers Hussain, Headley, Hollioake, Butcher and David Lloyd having tea in QVB - lots of good shops - bought nothing - booked opera.

Dined in hotel - nothing special.

Tuesday 2nd February 1999

Sydney

Went on Captain Cook harbour cruise - beautiful morning - hot sunshine. Walked in Royal Botanic Garden - around point and back into the town - not at my best.

Went to top of AME Building - superb views - back to hotel - definitely ‘sicky’ - David arranged to see doctor - injection - worked like magic - well enough to go to opera. Beautiful singing - managed to stay awake - taxi there and back. Dinner at opera - Cafe Mozart.

Wednesday 3rd February 1999

Sydney

Much better. Caught ferry to Manley - paddled in sea - warm water. David had ice-cream. Ate sandwiches - lunch - on harbour watching very busy harbour traffic.

Deutschland - new German liner moored in harbour coming back next year to ‘house’ German competitors in Olympics - Sept 2000.

PM - took Blue Explorer around suburbs of Sydney - beautiful houses - gardens small. Went along coast to Bondi Beach - paddled again - lovely clean feet.

Dined in Italian Village on Sydney Cove - dined Italian - super views of Sydney Opera House & Harbour Bridge.

Thursday 4th February 1999

Sydney

Trip to Blue Mountains - journey long but not tiring. Stopped for elevenses - tea & beautiful home-made apple tart. Bought some delicious plums and gala apples - all locally grown - passed many orchards as we went up into the Blue Mountains.

At the ‘top’ air blue - bought lunch then travelled down into the gorge - on a train! Walked for half an hour down into the gorge - almost ‘tropical’ with beautiful tree ferns - mist came down - hid ‘3 Sisters’ rocky outcrops from view. 

Journey quite pleasant - made visit on way back - Australian Wildlife Park - saw Kangaroos, Koalas, Wombat - not over impressed with park. Journeyed in front seat on top of double decker coach - splendid views - entertained throughout by commentary - informative & quips of driver & his mate. 

Dined in Italian Village again - good meal. Packed for Saturday.

Friday 5th February 1999

Sydney to Canberra to Sydney - 572km

Marathon trip to Canberra - Capital of Federation of Australia. Travelled along straight roads - lots of towns & villages now isolated - some becoming ghost towns.

Had elevenses at Mittagong - small town - lovely atmosphere - cafe in what once was the bank - lovely old building.

In Canberra - fleeting visit to superb art gallery - beautiful Aboriginal paintings etc - visit too short. Lunched in gallery before visiting Parliament - superb new building - built partly underground - roof supporting flag mast. Inside masses of marble and wood. Senate House in muted plum shade & House of Representatives in eucalyptus green - very elegant - very impressive building inside & out - designed by American architect.

Drove around ‘Embassy Avenue’ - some very beautiful buildings especially American, South African and many more. Visited ANZAC Memorial - very impressive memorial to those who died fighting in wars since 1914. Ended with a visit to Mt Ainslie - superb views of Canberra and its designer layout and man-made lakes.

Dined on way home - arrived about nine. Had a drink - watched the cricket - lost again. Message for us - early start tomorrow - 7:15am.

Saturday 6th February 1999

Sydney to Narrandera - 530km

Up with the larks after restless night - ready by 7:15 - coach delayed - luggage lost.

Coach not full - contents varied - all middle-aged or more. Driver called Tom & Hostess called Pam. Gave out plenty of information, ‘rules’ of coach travelling - headed towards Canberra - driver obviously done journey before - lots of facts & fiction!

Stopped for elevenses in Berrima - visited antique shop!!! Town is very quiet - visited by tourists and Sydney-siders at weekends. Countryside flat - horses, sheep & cattle.

Stopped for lunch at Yass - some lovely old buildings - 1810 - with lace ironwork verandas - disappointing. Tea at Snake Gully - 5 miles from Gundagai. At Snake Gully - statue of dogs & tucker box. Countryside flat - houses, farms - few & far between. 

Stayed at Narrandera for first night - very hot - dined at Ex-Servicemen’s Club - quite good - driver had already told us that sometimes food good - sometimes very bad - we were lucky. Sat at table with couple from Shropshire - they are going on to New Zealand - leaving coach at Alice Springs. Very hot outside - well into 90’s - walked around the town - very little to see - streets wide - some houses with very pretty iron-work, bungalows with corrugated roofs - wide verandas - Federation style.

Stayed at a motel - very comfortable apart from the heat and the noisy air conditioner.

Sunday 7th February 1999

Narrandera to Adelaide - 825km

Up with the larks - 5:45 for early start - longest journey today to Adelaide. 

Left Narrandera (means place of Goana Lizard in Aborigine). Travelled along straight roads - saw moving Kangaroos - hurrah - and Emus, flocks of Rose-Breasted Cockatoos. Travelled across Hay Plain - lots of fields or corn, sorghum, sunflowers,, rice - well irrigated. 

Comfort stop 9:15am at Hay - small town. Journey punctuated by video of Murray River, some light music, word search competitions.

Lunched at Mildura - hot & windy. Break at Berri at the big orange. Passed into Sunraysia - area of grape growing and other fruits - lots of vines all in neat rows.

Road straight - surroundings very flat - little evidence of houses except in towns. Crossed Murray River and passed from New South Wales into Victoria and then into South Australia where we hope to have dinner. Gained half an hour in time because of daylight saving.

Arrived in Adelaide about 7pm after travelling through Barossa Valley - home of famous Australian wine making industry - Jacob’s Creek etc. Hotel - Park Royal - rather splendid - everything one could possibly want. Food good - could have been hotter.

Walked short way into city to shopping area. Spoke to Huw - all is well. A later start tomorrow - 10am for City Tour.

Monday 8th February 1999

Adelaide to Port Augusta - 308km

Despite luxury - disturbed night.

Walked up into shopping mall - not as busy or sophisticated as Sydney. Beautiful morning - had a tour of the city - called city of churches - wide tree-lined roads - surrounded by parklands and beautiful gardens. No high-rise buildings, again some beautiful verandas of filigree iron work.

Headed north to Port Augusta - surroundings flat and brown apart from beautiful trees. Mallee - Eucalypts branching from base. In city large old Moreton Bay Fig Trees with large flat semi aerial buttress roots - fruit poisonous to humans, birds and other animals. 

Road straight, countryside very flat - ‘scrub’ covered - Saltbush - eaten by cattle not by sheep. Early lunch in Wakefield - small settlement off the highway. Passed salt lakes - travelled parallel to the coast - still hot with cooling breeze.

Everyone on coach gave potted history of themselves - mostly retired people - some of whom had very interesting lives.

In Port Augusta visited Interpretive Centre - some very interesting information. Stayed at Standpipe Motel just outside the town. Happy now sat with 3 women who joined in Adelaide - one been in Australia for 6 months - doing various tours.

Meal just adequate - balmy evening. Walked into town with Peter & Barbara. pleasant company - easy to talk to. Very quiet in town - everybody in bed by 9pm.

Tuesday 9th February 1999

Port Augusta to Coober Pedy - 540km 

Restless night, superb morning. Clear, blue sky, cooling breeze. Adequate breakfast - off at 7:45am.

Straight road - one or two Mesas - small ‘mounds’ with steep sides - smaller versions of Mesas found in America. Saw baby Emus, some raptors perched on dead trees, some sheep. Few signs of habitation - definitely not my place to live. Understand how early settlers failed to survive in such harsh conditions - up to 140F in high Summer.

Saw Wedge-Tailed Eagle. Left Stuart Highway to have morning break at Woomera - rocket launching site - built in middle of nowhere. Listened to a very interesting tape of a speech by Len Beadell who designed and built the Woomera Rocket Range where the A Bombs were tested. He also organised the building of other A Bomb testing sites and over a million miles of road system in central Australia. It was a very humorous speech.

We lunched at Glendambo - a road house in the middle of nowhere - but it had lace tablecloths. We have just passed a road-train - a truck - American-style cab with 3 trailers - 62 wheels. 

(The salt lake we passed was Lake Heart - one thirtieth the size of Lake Eyrie)

PM - Countryside still very flat - lots of scrub - little evidence of habitation - no animals apart from flies (hard & soft Spinifex and Saltbush make up vegetation) and Wedge-Tailed Eagles and some crows feeding on Kangaroos which had obviously attempted to cross the road - unsuccessfully.

We all got out to ‘experience’ the Outback - very hot up to the mid-30s - soil red/brown in colour - intense heat. Left highway to reach Coober Pedy - evidence of it - piles of spoil from opal mining.

Staying at Desert Cave - hotel - like houses built all or partially underground. Room excellent. Tour of town - completed quickly - not much to see - underground church, visited opal ‘mine’ - very interesting - bought earrings - heat overpowering. Shops very few & far between - fresh food delivered once a week on Thursdays - don’t go shopping on Wednesdays!!

Dinner good - service attentive but slow. Sat with Peter & Barbara from Malvern - super night - beautiful stars - saw Southern Cross.

Wednesday 10th February 1999

Coober Pedy - Uluru - 755km 

Very restless night - too hot. Woke up every hour practically - David restless too.

Ready for breakfast at 6:30am. Some people slept underground and enjoyed the experience - not for me - I want windows and natural daylight. Saw some of the underground rooms - beautifully furnished - fitted with all mod-cons.

Off at 7:30 for another long journey to Uluru/Ayers Rock. Travelling along Stuart Highway - left highway to travel along a dirt track to view the Painted Desert - reminiscent of America - but not as spectacular. Beautiful morning - wish we could have gone off for a walk before it becomes too hot.

Again countryside flat - red soil and sparse scrubby vegetation - no Kangaroos yet - although was served for dinner last night! Leaving sheep country - going into cattle country - guarded by ‘Dog Fence’ to keep Dingos out of sheep territory - sunk into ground - can be seen from space??

Passed some Brumbys - wild horses - nice looking - feeding on coarse vegetation. Also saw 6 Wedge-Tailed Eagles feeding on dead Kangaroo.

Stopped for elevenses at Marla - saw 3 Aborigines - did a gentle walk about to get the circulation going. On again into cattle country - much greener - possibly some rain - stopped at border - passed into Northern Territory - hot as!!! 36°C - 100°F - also turned watches back - gained an hour.

Many more trees. 293km to Alice - 1764km to Darwin from here. Tom gave us the origin of Waltzing Matilda. Heading into Red Centre. Fruits growing by side of road - ‘Paddy Melons’ - not edible. Veg improved the further north we travelled - hot, hot outside. Saw our first sight of Ayers Rock - really is very red.

Very swish hotel rooms with everything one could want. Tom took us on a bus trip around the Rock - very ‘awesome’ close up - decided against climbing it - a long rail to help - height put me off and the heat.

Sat with Peter & Barbara for dinner - very busy. Saw some cricket on the TV - England had a good start - but don’t know how the game finished. Did some washing - put it out on the verandah - view of Ayers Rock fantastic.

Thursday 11th February 1999

Uluru

Restless night - up at 5:20am - breakfast at 6am for a 6:30 start.

Walked around Ayers Rock - 6 miles - took us about 2hrs with viewing & photograph taking. Lots of people climbing Rock making it look quite easy. A lovely morning - not too warm initially and with a lovely breeze. From Ayers Rock went to view Olgas - another rocky outcrop - but not one large rock as Ayers. Walked into the ravine - 1 mile in and 1 mile back - very hot - flies a nuisance.

Visited cultural centre of Aboriginal peoples - pictures etc - telling their history and fables about the tribes of peoples. Film of some of their dances.

Lunched at the centre and bought 2 paintings - copies of originals. Had a short walk about the Rock on the way back with Tom explaining some of the rock paintings in a cave - where women taught the young women how to attract a man - didn’t wash except when it rained - water too precious. Therefore to clean themselves - women rubbed themselves on the rock - very hard on the ‘boobs’.

Now very hot - up in the 40s. Shopped, washed and showered while David went off for his helicopter ride. David had a super time in the ‘        ‘ - went over and around Ayers Rock and The Olgas - wonderful sight from the air - some vegetation on the top - light fuzz of green hair. Back in plenty of time for 6:15 start for Rock at sunset.

Had a splendid time - buffet provided by Tom & Pam. Champagne - very nice and all manner of soft drinks accompanied by a variety of eats. Dined at hotel until late - very pleasant with Pam & Peter. Cancelled camel trip - too early a start at 5:15am - been up since 5:15 this morning - having travelled 480 miles the day before.

Friday 12th February 1999

Uluru to Kings Canyon - 324km 

Late start - breakfast at 8 for a 9am start to Kings Canyon. Another beautiful morning with bright sunshine and pleasant breezes. Heard on news - cyclone at Cairns!!!

Bought a hat. Sitting in front seat today - splendid views - straight road bounded first by sand dunes and then by scrub - low growing shrubs, tufted grasses - no signs of animals only some Kites. Should see some Camels today!! Wait and see.

Surroundings changed - scrub replacing sand dunes - little hillier. Stopped to view Mt _______. Met a traveller from Pant, Merthyr Tydfil - knew Glyn Jones, Mairona, Gethin, Hubert Gwynne - used to keep Pant Post Office - sold up and now travelling - hopes to be home by time of Rugby World Cup. Travelling on his own in a little traveller - sleeping in his vehicle.

Lunched at Kings Creek Station - Michael Palin made programme here when he was travelling around the world - filmed how he caught Camels - wild - shipped all over the world. ‘Moss’ gave us a talk after lunch which he had prepared - included ‘Damper’ - bread served with cream and maple syrup. Still haven’t seen any Camels.

Arrived at Kings Canyon Resort about 2pm - very nice - chalet-type of arrangement. Before I go any further - I must comment on the flies. They are everywhere - they seem to have appeared in very large numbers as soon as we crossed into the Northern Territories - according to ‘Moss’ at Kings Creek - they thrive on all insect repellant except one.

Walked along floor of Kings Canyon - advised against walking the rim - too hot. Tom a bit of a pessimist - underestimates ability of many of his passengers or tribe. I think we could have managed the rim walk since it was much cooler this afternoon - clouds in the sky - one or two drops of rain.

Dined in restaurant - befores and middles not up to much - but deserts were delicious - persuaded Ian - a very quiet young man travelling alone to join us. Cloudy sky - no stars tonight. Early start tomorrow. 6:30 breakfast for 7:30 start.

Saturday 13th February 1999

Kings Canyon to Alice Springs - 332km 

5:45am wake up - beautiful sunrise.

1st opportunity to write my diary today because we are travelling along a dirt road to Hermannsburg - going across country. Coach in front had a flat tyre - took lot of effort to change it. 

Stopped for a bush comfort stop - very hot - ground sandy - plants prickly, some beautiful fluffy seed heads, variety of grasses, Paddy’s Pumpkins. CP - Ayers Rock 480 miles, Ayres & Olgas 140 miles, Ayres - Kings Canyon 195 miles.

Camels footprints and calling cards - but no camels.

Arrived Hermannsburg 11:45. Had lunch - open sandwich and taste of apple strudel. Visited art gallery - paintings by Aborigines - bought two copies of watercolours by Albert Namatjira - first of the painters in the area.

Back on coach - cut out Kangaroo competition - some excellent efforts. Some - they looked like dinosaurs!! Vera - 81 year old from London won the 1st prize. This is day 8 of tour - cricket should start at Melbourne after washout yesterday. Now heading towards Alice Springs on a proper road. Passed Gross Bluff - ‘mountains’ result of meteorite impact.

Stopped for a short walk into Stanley Chasm - very narrow - saw 2 tree frogs in a small pool - end almost blocked - sheer sides - deep red, pink, grey and black colours - beautiful ghost gums. Later walked in Simon’s Gap - ended in a deep pool - no swimming.

Arrived in Alice - usual talk by Tom - avoid eye contact with Aborigines - more in evidence here. Room good - all mod-cons. Went to a barbecue in a cattle station. Boomerang throwing - talk about life - making Dampers, Aborigine, tribal system.

Good meal - tender steak, salad, baked potato, damper with ‘Kangaroo’ butter, apple tart, plenty to drink - a good evening ended with a talk about the sky. Did laundry - washing, drying and ironing - bed by twelve!

Sunday 14th February 1999

Alice Springs

A superb morning - clear blue sky with a warm, gentle breeze - hot already at 7:30am. Not so early a start today - we are off to the town!!

Walked into A - 15 minutes across bridge over dry river bed. Todd - where many Aborigines hang out. If one listens to Tom, these are ‘miscontents’? Some shops open - lots selling Aboriginal art etc - nothing David fancied in the way of a painting. In afternoon visited Desert Wildlife Park - very well laid out and very interesting - different habitats illustrated.

  

Lunched here and bought some gifts. The visited ‘Flying Doctors Station’ - film and a talk followed by original telegraph station. Very, very hot outside about 37°C. On way out of station saw a very large lizard - Perentie - 2nd largest in the world after the Komodo Dragon - found in Indonesia. Also in telegraph station - two orphaned Kangaroos - each carried in a pillow case = pouch.

Back to the hotel by 5pm. Had drinks by the pool with B & Peter. Dined with B & P at hotel - service a bit slow but food good. Free glass of Champagne and Rose´ because Feb 14th. Spoke to Huw - 10:30pm here, 1pm there - everything fine - tried to contact us because of news that Cairns hit by cyclone.

Monday 15th February 1999

Alice Springs to Tennant Creek - 554km 

Not a bad night. Up for a 7:15 breakfast and 8:15 start. Service slow at breakfast. Some people left the coach this morning - Irish sisters, Mollie, Canadians, Mary & _____, John & Sheila, Welsh couple Frank & Joan.

Visited ‘School of the Air’ - very impressed - very up to date tuition to children from 3-12. TV, video, computer, internet for £32 a year or free - some lovely work exhibited.

Further up the road visited Bond Springs Station cattle ranch - been in existence since 1870s - this rancher went on to graze cattle over one-fifth of Australia! Saw original homestead - lovely old furniture - had tea & scones. Then further along crossed Tropic of Capricorn into the torrid zone - heading north to Tennant Creek. Road straight, surroundings desert, scrub, ‘woody’ - no signs of any wildlife apart from few birds.

Lunched at Ti Tree Roadhouse - sandwiches etc. Had 2 injured Wedge-Tailed Eagles. Visited nearby Aboriginal Art Centre - very good - didn’t buy anything!!!

Still heading north through ‘cow country’ - very large stations in this part of the country - but only seen one or two cows. Stopped to see Telegraph Station - now closed. Very hot outside. Welcome cold drink & oranges provided by Pam. Still heading for Tennant Creek - 5th largest town in territory. Tom paints ‘gloomy’ picture of the town - gold mining town. 2 gold mines are now closed. Don’t go out after dark - some racial tension in the area.

Rail road coming to the town. Town now improving - surrounding country-side evidence of termites. Travelled 554km/320 miles today - getting weary!

Eldorado Hotel - not bad at all - rooms clean, bed covers etc pretty - bathroom clean etc - dinner good, plenty of choice. Sat with Peter, Barbara, Brian & Patricia, Des & Joyce.

Tuesday 16th February 1999

Tennant Creek to Katherine - 674km 

Restless night - warm etc. Reasonable breakfast. Partial/Annular Eclipse of the sun by moon - 5:30pm - must look out for this.

This morning - sky cloudy - banks of clouds, not fluffy - temp still quite high. Passing more of the same red sand/soil - low scrub - bushes & trees - some termite hills.

Stopped at Renner Springs - cattle station, lots of birds and beautiful grasses eg Chloris Virgata - now leaving Red Centre and moving into the top part of the country - video to see Man from Sunny River - Mel Gibson. Feather top Rhodes grass.

Lunched at Daly Waters - pub in the back of beyond - usual fare - sandwiches etc. Lots of posters etc around the walls. Temp 35°C in the pub and 45°C outside = 113°F - hottest yet. Had a short walk - dripping with sweat - road closed by flood so crossed flooded ford. Surroundings lush - more grass - bigger trees less scrub. Journey enlivened by playing Dingo - pick 5 numbers between 0-9 and the cross off numbers taking last number off number plate of passing cars - dollar a line - winner to share kitty with Flying Doctor - won by German man & Dutch woman.

Left highway to visit thermal pool at Mataranka - deep pool - area devastated by floods Jan 1998 Australia Day and by fruit bats this Nov. Lots of beautiful palms - coconuts. Saw a large Goanna - Perentie (Aborigine name). Visited museum of Jane Gunn - wrote We of the Never Never.

Vey hot but as got nearer to Darwin - skies darkened and down came the rain in torrents - streets awash - no chance of seeing the eclipse which was visible at Tennant Creek.

Room fine - all the usual - but no hair drier. Rain slackened - very humid - dined with Peter & Barbara - good meal. Walked into the town - nothing to see or do - but glad of the exercise.

Wednesday 17th February 1999

Katherine

Restless night. 7am breakfast for 7:50 start to Katherine Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park - surroundings lush. Boat trip of the gorge - not as narrow or as steep as China. River still high - only doing first gorge.

Saw a Rock Wallaby and got off to view rock paintings and then further down for swimming in a pool beneath a waterfall - I paddled. Back down river to jetty - viewed the fruit bats once more - very large wing-span.

Back in the bus to Katherine - and a look around the shops - bought buns etc for lunch. Then headed for Kakadu National Park - size of Wales - weather very humid, no sunshine (only fleetingly) with very heavy showers in between - tropical - vegetation lush - tall grass, splendid trees, ‘swamps’, full rivers. Visited ________ on the way. 

Hotel shaped like a crocodile. Beautiful pool, very good food - ate too much - buffalo, kangaroo, pork, beef - scrumptious deserts.

Thursday 18th February 1999

Katherine

Couldn’t sleep - noise from air conditioner and the birds. 7am breakfast for 8am start.

Journeyed in Park to start of river cruise - Yellow River? - pleasant morning, no mosquitoes or flies. A good start - saw a young Fish Eagle. Water high - luxuriant vegetation on either side. Pandamus Water Lilies, trees of all description - little Frogs hopping on the Lily pads and Crocodiles. We saw 1 for 3 times - or 3 different small crocodiles, 1 large croc resting on the water ie head & shoulders over a tree trunk and an even larger one floating on the surface of the water in the swamp between 2 trees. David spotted one on the way back.

Saw lots of Buffalo Grass once thought to be extinct, Paper Bark Tree at least 1000 years old - a very enjoyable trip - lasted 2 hours.

We then went to _________ to walk & view rock paintings - very pleasant. Saw some beautiful flowers - blues, pinks, yellows, reds, orange - splendid view from highest point of the walk. Drink and biscuits on our return.

Rains came down in torrents on way back to Jabiru for lunch. David went to buy sandwiches to eat in room - friendly frog & lizard outside. Lazy afternoon - David went on flight over Kakadu - I walked around the town - very little to see - pleasant by nothing else. 

Everybody now thinking of end of trip and next stage in journey. Some to Cairns, Adelaide, Brisbane, Sydney etc - parting of the ways. 

Good dinner - had too much to eat yet again. Bed early. Broke my glasses.

Friday 19th February 1999

Katherine to Darwin 317km 

Up at 5:20am - lots of bird song — Rainbow Lorikeets - for the want of a better word. Spoke to Huw - 7am here and 9:30pm in Bourton - Huw sounded as if he was next door.

Off at 7:30am - yesterday travelled 100 miles. Saw some Wallabies at last when travelling through Kakadu village on our way. Vegetation dense - lots of palms and different trees and Buffalo Grass - lots and lots of water - completely different from Red Centre. So far 5869kms or 3668 miles.

Stopped for river cruise on Mary River - flows out to the sea. Saw masses of pink, blue and white Water Lillies. Also Water Chestnuts , masses of Palms, Mangrove swamps etc. Magpie, Geese, Jabiru, Blue Kingfishers, Egrets, Fish Eagle, Kites, 1 very large Crocodile and isolated on an island. David spotted 3 _____ - not seen it before. 2 will probably die - eaten by Crocodiles - natural selection in operation. Very relaxing 2 hour cruise.

Road into Wildman River Nature Reserve rutted and flooded in parts but not impassable - river level up 3 metres - yet in dry season - dries out completely in parts. 

Stopped on way to Darwin to view termite mounds - easily 12-15 feet tall. Trip around Darwin’s outskirts - wide tree lined bungalows with wide verandas, corrugated roofs - some up on stilts. Darwin bombed by Japanese and then devastated by Cyclone Tracy - now rebuilt - still expanding.

Novotel Atrium - beautiful room with kitchen facilities. Met in bar altogether to bid farewell to Tom & Pam - several people leaving for Cairns tomorrow. We will meet Pam tomorrow - Philip gave speech in French - to thank Tom & Pam - was not well received!! Said goodbye to Canadians Helen & Wiley, Americans Doris & Lionel, foursome from Yorkshire, South Africans, Germans, Dutch, Peter & Barbara.

Food in restaurant - not good!! Walked along front for half an hour with Peter & Barbara and so to bed. Very hot - unpleasant. 

Saturday 20th February 1999

Darwin

Very restless night - hot and dreadful cramp. Up with the larks for 8am start. Said goodbye again to Barbara & Peter who are leaving for Cairns at 12. They are going down the other side.

Today our driver was Pete who took us to Litchfield National Park. On the way we saw a Dingo and a Wallaroo and some Bush Wallabies. Visited two falls - one Wangi Falls - no bathing because of excessive water flow and swirling currents. Had a little walk about and saw 2 types of Termite mounds - Cathedral and Hematite mounds pointing N/S - 5° off magnetic north - these rather like grey tombstones.

Lunched at farm and watched (well I didn’t) the crocs being fed - horrible. Some crocs were enormous - one weighed a ton. Said goodbye to Patricia & Peter from Forest of Dean - promised to call and see them - to Dez & Joyce from Bournemouth. Walked along the esplanade and picked up some stones on small beach. No bathing because of nasties in the water.

Dined at ’Sizzles’ around the corner from the hotel. Very busy - everybody eats out on a Saturday evening - lots of children.

Sunday 21st February 1999

Darwin to Cairns - 2676km flight

Up with the larks. 3:45am for a 5:45am flight to Cairns.

Restless night - torrential rain. Picked up at hotel at 4:25am - for 15 minute ride to airport. All very quiet - roads deserted as was the airport. No problem getting on plane - many empty seats - changed seats - breakfasted and dozed. Lost half an hour travelling east. 

Journey took just over 2 hours to Cairns. At Darwin - one man taken off the aeroplane - just arrived from Singapore!! Checked passports of many others who were in transit from Singapore or Heathrow to Cairns - police and airport staff much in evidence.

At Cairns - sniffer dog sniffed out an apple in my bag - had to pass through Red Channel. Lovely little brown dog who wagged his tail - stopped when he discovered something in the luggage (We have just eaten the apple for lunch)

Picked up and delivered to Colonial Club Resort - truly tropical - palms, ferns - luxuriant - as is the rain - but still very warm. Lunched on patio outside room - smashing!!!

Walked in Cairns - bigger and busier than any town/city visited since Adelaide - but tattier - catering for the tourists. Walked along the Esplanade by the sea - still very warm but overcast - sun did peep through at times. Cairns too far from resort to walk. 

Rested and bathed and dined in the Homestead - very good food and value. Watched visitors bathing in the pool while we ate. Bed by 9:45.

Monday 22nd February 1999

Cairns

Not a bad night - not as warm as expected. Up at 6 for our trip to Cape Tribulation.

Picked up at 7:20 in Safari Bus - just 12 people on the trip. Went to Port Douglas to pick up 2 people - English but living in Hong Kong. Others were 4 Americans and rest Brits. Travelled along coast - quite spectacular.

Elevenses at the Ferry Stop at Daintree National Park prior to a trip on the river. Saw 2 Crocs - boatman lived in the rainforest - very knowledgeable about everything - very enjoyable.

Off then into rainforest - much evidence of last week’s cyclone - enormous tree blown down - ‘canopy’ lost in many parts. Walked along footpath in rainforest - beautiful Ferns, Epiphytes, host of trees with buttress roots, Treeferns, Orchids, Cycads, Mangrove Trees with breathing roots.

Lunched at Wilderness Lodge in the National Park. Very nice - salad, delicious homemade bread, coffee etc - very enjoyable.

Then off to Cape Tribulation - Captain Cook ran his boat onto the Great Barrier Reef and in his diary saw the Cape and wrote this is where his trials & tribulations started - hence the name Cape Tribulation. Beautiful turquoise sea - darker where reef lay - but no bathing - Box Jellyfish. Long sandy beach fringed with palms - straight out of a picture book.

Walked to view point - very hot. Later another walk through rainforest - ‘damp’ atmosphere. Beautiful trees, ferns etc Mangroves. Later stopped for ice-cream - here cyclone brought down enormous tree within inches of shop and destroyed 50% of their orchard - very philosophical about it - replant. 

Dinner in hotel.

Tuesday 23rd February 1999

Cairns

Up for a 7:30 start - on trip to the Barrier Reef. A superb day - blue, blue sky, brilliant sunshine sparkling on the turquoise sea.

Travelled to Michael’s Cay - out in the Coral Sea (Pacific Ocean) - 2hrs by Catamaran - Ocean Spirit - from Cairns. Very pleasant on board, delicious lunch, afternoon tea, Champagne - all of the trimmings.

Went down to the reef in a semi-submersible - absolutely marvellous - coral of all shapes, sizes, colours, masses of fish large and small - beautifully coloured Sea Turtle, large clams etc.

On the Cay - thousands of nesting sea birds - Common Noddy, Sooty Terns, Crested Terns with chicks at edge of water, Lesser Crested Terns, Silver Gulls trying to eat young and steal eggs - Brown Booby and Frigate Bird - not at all bothered by visitors.

People swan, snorkelled, Scuba dived, paddled etc. I tried a swim and David paddled. It was glorious - water warm, clear. Must make an effort to learn to swim. Very reluctant to get back on board. Leisurely cruise back to Cairns in the sunshine and slight breeze. A super day. How different from last week when they were hit by the hurricane.

Dined and went to bed.

Wednesday 24th February 1999

Cairns

Another busy day. Went up on the Kuranda Train - narrow gauge but diesel engine. Built at the end of the 19th Century to bring goods etc up to Cairns. Runs in gorge - through tunnels etc - not as precipitous as that in America.

Walked through Kuranda and then caught Skyrail down into valley to Tjapukai Aboriginal Culture Centre - had double trip at top because caught Skyrail going back to Kuranda. Lunched in Tjapukai - then saw various progs about Aboriginal origin, history, dancing etc. Another good day.

Coming down on the gondola - skimming over the surface of the canopy of the rain forest - closer than being in an aeroplane. Dined in hotel and so to bed - just after 9pm

Thursday 25th February 1999

Cairns

Our last full day in Australia. Up with the larks to go - wait for it - horse-riding. Spoke to Huw at 7:30am - 9:30pm with him - all is well - still raining.

Picked up at 8am to drive half an hour out of Cairns. At ranch met Alison in charge and young Japanese girl and cook. Other riders - Japanese mother and daughter - like us complete novices. Picked out 4 quiet horses - mine called Dolly, David’s Cleo. After very simple instructions off we went across the paddock and then up the mountains - slowly and carefully in single file. Dolly was third and Cleo last - she fancied David’s shoes and kept on biting his shoes!!!

We went up the hillside - the horses knew exactly where to go - I had to have my stirrups adjusted - I couldn’t straighten my legs when we were walking downhill. We walked, trotted and cantered. I hung on while my bottom was pummelled! We stopped for a cold drink and then started down through the trees and a path through the forest!! We were out for 2 hours - and had a barbecue at the end. We were all able to walk after dismounting - without too many ill effects!! We had a certificate and a lucky horseshoe for our 40th Wedding Anniversary next year.

Later did the laundry - all clean for Singapore and I had my hair cut while David sat in the shade by the pool. Dined and went to bed.

Friday 26th February 1999

Cairns to Singapore

Here we go again. David had a restless night - it poured with rain. No rush to get out and about. Breakfasted quite late for us and after completing the packing we went into Cairns for a last look around.

Bought a ‘Possum Print’ - we had been looking for it. Paid bill - surprisingly little - worked out about £28 a day for the two of us and this included drinks. Met 2 Welsh people from Mumbles - frequent visitors to Australia and stay regularly at Colonial Club - very pleasant atmosphere - beautiful surroundings, Palm trees and many tropical flowers - very beautiful. Excellent facilities - love to come again. Being 3km outside Cairns - not a problem - regular hotel bus.

Left at 1pm for airport. Took off on time for Darwin - half an hour time difference - put watched back half an hour - gained half an hour. Flight fine after bumpy start through rain clouds. Indifferent meal - noodles with vegetables - but Wattleseed Cookies fine.

Landed at Darwin - left plane for 1 hour. Back on board and now off to Singapore - turned watches back another 1.5 hours to Singapore time. This will have been a 26 hour day. Served with another meal - better than the previous noodle-based meal - beef in oyster sauce - cheese & biscuits. Flight bit shaky at times due to thunder storms. Crossed equator as headed north. Tried to sleep - no joy.

Arrived Singapore 9pm their time - enormous airport - very efficient - taken by mini-bus to Orani Hotel - can’t see much in the dark.

Saturday 27th February 1999

Singapore

Restless night. Up at 6:30am to go on City Bus Tour. Visited many parts of Singapore. Guide very good - extolled the virtues of the Government in control here - don’t tolerate any criminal activities - very hard on drug traffickers etc - fined if drive a dirty car. Encourage all children to be educated to their ability - teachers very much in charge. Senior teachers have 6 months in police force - to learn how to discipline offenders!!

City - very busy - but no traffic queues - visited various ‘housing’ areas - ‘villages’ with shops, schools, playing fields, factories etc. Viewed Sentosa ‘Island’ off the coast - reached by bridge, cable car, boat. Visited ‘Little India’ - arcades selling Indian goods - shop below houses - all beautifully restored and a Hindu Temple - all religions tolerated - provided don’t mix with politics and interfere with others freedom.

Another tour in afternoon by trolley car. Then bought sandwiches for lunch. In afternoon - walked in park. Very hot & humid - beautiful park. Visited the Battle Box - site of British Headquarters in 2nd World War- days of Japanese invasion of Singapore - followed by surrender of British due to lack of food, petrol etc - to avoid any further loss of life.

Had early dinner and went to see parade to celebrate Chinese New Year. Very colourful and noisy - lots of marching band, floats etc - but very, very crowded - unbelievably hot and sticky. Chinese people in crowd very keen to explain what was happening.

Sunday 28th February 1999

Singapore

Had a beautiful morning in the Botanic Gardens. Such a wonderful array of trees, shrubs and flowers and in the lake masses of Turtles of all sizes - fed by passers-by. Beautiful Ferns, Water Lilies and one part was remains of original rainforest.

Hopped onto tram and went to ‘the shops’ - don’t care if we ever go again - such a lot of people - lots of noise and ‘shops’ of all descriptions - disappointing - very little and very expensive - hardly worth bothering.

Back to hotel for short trip on the river in a ‘bumboat’ - saw shore from the river - back to hotel and then taxi to Botanic Gardens for an open-air concert in the Palm Gardens by the Symphony Orchestra of Singapore University. Had a picnic - lovely setting - good music - very talented students.

Back again to hotel - met Dez & Joyce on way home - they also have been here since Friday!!! Walked around and about - very busy - restaurants, shops etc - entirely different from the day. I had to admit that some of the food looked tempting!!! Who knows - perhaps I’ll try ‘it’ another time.

Monday 1st March 1999

Singapore

Very restless night. Could have got up at 2 o’clock. Very busy at breakfast time.

Went this morning to visit the War Museum & Chapel at Changi. Here many prisoners of war were kept under the most terrible conditions - very few of the total number contained survived. It showed some of the reproductions of water-colour paintings completed during imprisonment - the originals are in the National Archives.

Went to Raffles where David had his ‘Singapore Sling’. It was a beautiful building very carefully restored. Museum showed what it was like in the 1920’s & 30’s. It had a beautiful shopping arcade of very expensive shops.

It poured with rain - like stair rods with thunder & lightning - a real tropical thunderstorm - but it slackened and stopped by the time we went on the ‘Night Safari’ - a zoo - very cleverly done - animals not in cages - but in natural looking ‘compounds’ with no obvious barriers. Went around in a tram. Saw Lions, Tigers, Leopard, Elephant, several kinds of Deer, Bats, Civet Cats, - then walked for about 45 minutes along prepared trails - to view some animals much closer. The end was a display of ‘trained’ animals including a huge Snake which had been hidden in a seat behind us - we moved so quickly when they took it out!!!

Journey back took an hour because of delivering people to hotels. Dined late on pizza - shouldn’t have eaten so much.

Tuesday 2nd March 1999

Singapore to Home

Last day. Breakfasted late - sat by a couple from Manchester - wife originally came from Pontypridd - small world - en route to visit daughter - cancer specialist in Sydney.

Spent morning in China Town - visited almost every shop that was open - some man wanted David to buy an imitation Rolex watch!!. David’s day made - watched ‘a visit of dragon’ to a shop - to bring owner good luck!! Lots of noise and leaping about by the dragon!!

Packed bags and then took a taxi and lunched at Raffles. Delicious sandwich and gorgeous cakes. Walked back to hotel - long way. Paid bill, changed and went and walked around Clark Quay. Bought one or two things. Dined in Italian restaurant - very nice.

Picked up promptly at 9:10 and whisked to airport and lo-behold - our plane delayed until 4am. Went on stand-by for Qantas from Melbourne and we were fortunate to get last 2 seats. Rushed - needn’t have - I got very steamed up. This plane delayed for 1 hour due to congested air-space above Singapore.

Flight quite smooth - flew up to Kuala Lumpur then across Himalayas, Tehran etc. Didn’t have dinner - but had Champagne Breakfast at 2am British time - Midday Singapore time!!! Glad to get back to Welsh time!!

Sat next to David because he asked steward and a young man next to me agreed to change. I sat next to a woman from Melbourne - 2 children back home with husband. Very interesting to talk to. She got very distressed when we landed at about 6:30am.

Rang Margaret - she will pick us up in Cardiff at 11:50am - it’s raining in Aberdare - cold but dry in London. 

We are almost home after 5 weeks away!!!