Tuesday 23rd March 2004 

Home to Heathrow

A glorious morning after a wet night. We went to town to complete some last minute jobs and after lunch we were away - still in bright spring-like sunshine.

The roads were very busy with much heavy traffic (We saw England win the 2nd Test against the West Indies before we left!) and we had a mixture of sunshine and heavy sleety showers.

We found the Thistle Hotel without any difficulty. Very busy hotel. Room clean and functional.

Dined in hotel - very good. Early to bed. David happy TV in room!!

Wednesday 24th March 2004 

Heathrow to San Diego

Very disturbed night - I was snoring like a train apparently. Up with the larks, breakfasted in hotel - left at 08:30.

Airport heaving! Queued for AA - checks everywhere - made the plane by 10am - no time to look around or relax. 2 good seats at back of cabin - plane full.

Lunch - least said the better. Another meal at 1pm their time - pizza. Flight uneventful - landed smoothly in Chicago - very busy airport - queued again to go through into airport - travelled by train from 5 to terminal 3.

David’s pill box set off the alarm - so he was checked from top to toe!. Left for San Diego at 3.05pm their time - 9pm our time.

Our dinner was a ‘goodie bag’ - sandwich, crisps and biscuit - oh well - we have eaten far too much today already. Tomorrow back to normal! Spoke to two friendly women on plane - very helpful and very interested in what we were going to do!!

Taxi to Vagabond - looks bit run down - but clean and comfortable. Had a walk around harbour - saw “Spirit of Adventure” and went to bed at 7:30pm their time! 3:30am our time!

Thursday 25th March 2004 

San Diego

Woke up very, very early -  up, showered and out by 7:30am. Glorious morning - warm sunshine, clear blue sky.

Breakfasted at ‘Denny’s” - too much given!! Walked into “Old Town Historic Centre of Old San Diego” - 2 blocks short. Walked for a little time then took “Trolly Tour”. 1st stop Maritime Museum - 4 ships - ‘Star of India’, ‘Berkley’, ‘Medea’ and ship made for Russel Crowe in Master & Commander - all beautifully restored - lots of school parties.

Back on Trolley and through Down Town and Gas Lamps Quarter and over the floating bridge to Coronado - then back to Balboa Park - beautiful - lots to see - too little time. Visited Museum of Art, Museum of Man, Japanese Garden - admired beautiful trees and flowers. The back to Historic Centre and then back to Vagabond Inn. Very busy day.

Dined in Fiddler’s Green - David very good steak but my pasta disappointing.

Friday 26th March 2004 

San Diego

It was raining this morning! Breakfasted in the hotel and then off by bus and red trolley to Seaport Village and our ride on the amphibious Seal Boat.

It was very interesting - travelled around the area on land and crossed from one side to the other in the sea! It was cold & wet for some of the time. Saw Sea Lions, Cormorants, Egrets, Blue Herons! Saw US aircraft carrier and ‘tanks’ coming into dock in San Diego.

Afternoon was warm & sunny again. Walked into the Old Town ‘Gas Lamp Quarter’ - some lovely old buildings, numerous eating places etc. Walked back to station - talked to American lady of Scottish descent - she drove us back to the Vagabond. Very interesting woman - married to a Portuguese man - used to fish. Keen on gardening, fossil hunting, geology. Took us to see memorial to Portuguese who had lost their lives at sea.

Dined in style. Hornblower Evening Cruise - glass of champagne - followed by a very good dinner and music & dancing. Taxied home - another odd driver!!

Saturday 27th March 2004 

San Diego

A superb morning - blue sky, warm sunshine. We were up and about early - caught the ferry to Coronado - a beautiful, unspoilt place - lovely houses with flower-filled gardens.

Went on a walking tour - very enthusiastic and entertaining guide - Susan? Started off with potted history of San Diego and its founded J Spreckels - brought money etc to area. Had a splendid organ with 2000 pipes in his house - now a hotel. Also built famous Coronda Hotel - rather splendid!

Came back to Vagabond and met some of party who had arrived - rest in Chicago - missed the flight. Dined out with arrivals and met some seemingly friendly people. Good meal. Repacked and so to bed.

Sunday 28th March 2004 

San Diego to Spirit of Adventure

A 5:45am start. Another superb morning. Met some of the others who arrived late last night - some very keen ‘Birders’.

Left at 7am with JR driving on our birding expedition. Some very keen people - with their ‘scopes’ and bird books! We saw some superb birds - too many to put down here. Minute Humming Birds, Finches, Wrens etc. We went to look at land birds, dunes salt marshes etc.

Bought lunch on the way. David - the leader and expert bird man - ably assisted by Susan his girlfriend - she set up her ‘scope’ for us to help able birders to see the specimens. Saw Hawks of at least 3 kinds - one sitting on a nest. Very enjoyable but very tiring - temp of 86°F - dozed off in the bus. The next thing will be our going on board The Spirit of Adventure!!

We went on board - Cabin 4 - limited space - 2 bunks top and bottom. Sandwich supper more of the same. Went over bird list - 90 species - had a safety talk from Captain - general talk from David & Scott.

And so to bunk after cleaning teeth - well fitted out ‘heads’. Tomorrow the adventure starts!!!

Monday 29th March 2004 

Spirit go Adventure

Slept fitfully - noise of engine and wrestling with bed covers. Up at 5:45 - others up before this - queued to shower.

Breakfasted on fresh fruit - tried French Toast, blueberries & sausages - not for me. 

Saw Northern White-sided Dolphins. Went out in skiff around ________ Island - uninhabited - saw Harbour Seals, Elephant Seals and babies. Beautiful Starfish - orange, red and purple Sea Urchins - brilliant colours.

3 types of Cormorant - some nesting with chicks. Western Seagulls mating - has to be a first - Kingfisher, Pelicans, brilliant purple edged Jellyfish - a smashing experience! David slightly under the weather - but came on skiff ride. Now we are heading south in brilliant sunshine with cooling breeze - time only 10:20am.

Back on board we were treated to a magnificent display by over a hundred Short Beaked Common Dolphins swimming alongside the boat and all around - leaping and somersaulting - marvellous.

Later we saw shoals of Mackerel and flocks of birds - Western Gulls. Surf Scoter - Fulmars of 2 kinds.

Lunched on salad and broccoli soup - David nothing - little bread destined for the albatross. Very foggy now - cannot see anything.

Sat for whole of afternoon as we cruised south - very pleasant. David still unwell - he retired early without having anything to eat. I had little dinner - chicken, veg & rice and ice-cream with chocolate sauce. 

All in bed by 8:30.

Tuesday 30th March 2004 

Spirit of Adventure

Up with the larks before 6am and others up before this. David feeling better.

Ship cruised all night and anchored. Saw ships from Mexican Navy keeping a watchful eye on ship that had gone aground - apparently somebody fell asleep!

Went ashore before 8am - saw colonies of Northern Elephant Seals - females and young weaners.

Did long hike with David (leader) - along coast and then up to lighthouse (moderate +). Saw 13 Ospreys and nests and one with fledgling - Ravens etc.

Back to the boat in brilliant sunshine and after a short ride - off again in search of Guadalupe Fur Seals - brilliant - very playful on rocks and in water - clear turquoise in colour with masses of kelp - like trees in the water.

Back on boat heading south to the Lagoon. Dinner - spaghetti and tomato sauce and pineapple upside down cake for desert. Forgot - but on the way saw a large Fin Whale. Bed by 8:30.

Wednesday 31st March 2004 

Spirit of Adventure

Restless night - up at 5:30 - still others up and breakfasting - lots of whales in lagoon and around the boat - Mums and babies.

Went out in ‘Panga” - saw whales immediately - some very playful - up and around Panga - touched and stroked these beautiful creatures - 3 months old and big - mothers enormous with lice and barnacles! Fantastic experience!! Also Dolphins and several different kinds of birds - Divers, Cormorants, Royal Tern, Pelicans, Sabine Gull, Brent Geese, Marbled Godwits.

Went out a 2nd time - but after 1st half hour - whales didn’t want to play - saw many on the surface, blowholes and ‘spy’ hopping - but didn’t come near to the Panga.

Back to boat for a lunch of chicken enchilada - chicken in a rolled pancake with spring onions and olives and a delicious sauce, black beans and rice!! Very tasty. Fruit for desert and more pineapple upside down cake.

Went out again after lunch and stayed out for over 3 hours - very quiet again for first half hour - but then saw lots of blows - and soon saw lots of cruising mothers and calves - but did not want to play. At one time almost surrounded by whales - spoilt for choice. Some had distinctive white patches as well as scratches and of course the whale lice - quite revolting close up - and barnacles which actually penetrate into the skin.

The a calf seemed to creep up on us - and spray us - but didn’t come close enough to stroke. This one was easily recognised by its big white patch.

We were then entertained by another mother and calf - mother allowed herself to be touched and stoked - skin smooth like marble - enormous mouth and large eyes. Calf also allowed itself to be stoked and played first on one side and then the other side - rolled over, did backstroke etc - marvellous!!

We were joined by another pair which wanted to get into the act! Swam around and under the Panga and even pushed against it. 

We reluctantly left them at ten past four. Still saw whales on our way back to the Spirit of Adventure and there were several swimming around the ship all evening - we could see them when we were having our dinner - pork ribs, corn & salad - very tasty.

Then had a slide show in the evening on Grey Whales. Tomorrow - early morning trip to mangrove swamps - decided to decline and have a lie in.

Thursday 1st April 2004 

Spirit of Adventure

Did I say lie in - I was awake almost every hour. Got up at 5:45am - long before ‘swampers’ left but managed a leisurely breakfast. Sun up but not yet warm - time 7:45am.

Off we went at 8am with Fredrico - we shot out into the lagoon or was it out to the opening of the lagoon - we saw lots of whales and ‘eye hopping’ and then we met a mother and calf and we had tremendous fun with both. They both wanted to be patted and scratched and the ‘driver’ had a ‘brush’ which he used to ‘scrub’ the whale - the calf pushed the boat, both rubbed against the boat. The calf opened its mouth a few times and we saw the baleen and an enormous tongue - pink in colour!!!

We stayed for an hour - got absolutely soaked - it appeared to deliberately ‘spray’ and splash us - right through to our pants. It was a worthwhile wetting!

We came back to the ship the long way around. The rain came but we were wet already and it stopped by the time we got back to the boat. On the return journey we met another playful mother & calf - but after 15 mins we left them and they didn’t follow us as the previous calf did to wet us again when we weren’t expecting it!!!

Afternoon was a disaster - David went whale watching - he got wet but whales didn’t come near the boat to play! I went on the walking trip to a sandbar - lots of shells of all kinds, ‘silver dollars’ and whale bones - chiefly vertebrae and ribs. Skeleton of a calf - 15 feet long - and a dolphin - footprints of Coyotes, red seaweed, Sanderling birds, Albatross, Gulls. Blue-turquoise sea - gentle waves - and I was sick on the beach but managed to get to the ship without disgracing myself - evening in bed.

We set off and the sea became quite choppy - David also retired to bed.

Friday 2nd April 2004 

Spirit of Adventure

Wakened by the call “Blue Whales ahead” - had to get up & out as I was plus jacket. Saw 2 Blues immediately in front of the ship. Blowing away - saw arched back and beautiful fluke - just like David Attenborough.

Sun shining - sea leaf rough. Feeling much better - light breakfast. Now ready for anything.

Sailing down Pacific coast of peninsula - en route for cape at which we turn into the Sea of Cortez! More excitement a pair of Blue Whales swimming just ahead of us. Mike turned the ship when he caught sight of them - huge - big head, very small dorsal fin and large fluke. Possible to see blue outline in the water - before they come to the surface!!

I can now see 1 whale while I am sitting down!! It is cruising up by the side of us. We turned on our way - slowed down to view a Turtle hitching a ride or feeding on floating kelp. Water very clear and could see head, marking on shell and legs very easily.

When the boat slows down we know that there is something to see - here we go - another turtle with enormous white barnacles on the top of its shell. It floated with us for a while and then it lifted its head, started paddling and then dived down out of sight.

Immediately we had a shoal of Common Dolphin riding with us - they sawn and dived effortlessly - synchronised swimming! It’s lovely sitting in warm sunshine with a slight breeze - what more could we want.

Salad for lunch - followed by more excitement Swordfish which we didn’t see and Humpback Whales - we followed them for half an hour while they spouted, turned over and then fluked before diving deeply - absolutely marvellous!

Brief sighting of Bryde’s Whale (pronounced Brutus Whale!) - still pursuing but just out of range each time.

A marvellous sunset - with lots of whales - showing flukes and breaching - superb display. Started our way further down the peninsula after the whale watching.

Saturday 3rd April 2004 

Spirit of Adventure

An early start at 6am and we were the last. We travelled all night and we were very aware of the noise from the engine.

Another lovely morning with brilliant sunshine and blue skies. We saw and tracked Dolphins - inshore form - and of course Humpback Whales - very big - they blew spouts, breached, dived and we saw flukes with varying amounts of white markings on them.

Saw a group of five - some pairs and singles. They were very active this morning and it’s only 9am. The Dolphins were fantastic - synchronised swimming and leaping again - we were very lucky!! Not long after we saw the Whale Shark - an enormous fish - up to 20 feet long and 8-10 feet wide at its head end - largest fish in the world - before dorsal fin was spotted - white and black end - brown to grey tail - typical cartilaginous fish tail!! Stayed with us for ages.

After lunch - treated to fantastic ‘display’ by Humpback - slapping water with dorsal fin - up to 9 times - showing full fluke before diving and fantastic breaching - double somersaulting - backwards - all that energy needed to lift such a weight out of the water. I hope all its efforts were not in vain.

After this display (and I forgot the somersaulting Manta Rays) we went to the beach - walked along to the end - some posh houses and shacks in which fishermen live while catching fish - very primitive!! Met American from Colorado on holiday with family.

Later went birding - saw lots of beautiful birds - came back, showered - ready to eat again.

Sunday 4th April 2004 - Palm Sunday

Spirit of Adventure

Another early morning - 5.15 after very disturbed night - cruised all night and anchored off San Jose Island off Punta Colorado Red Point - beautiful rock formation.

We were up and out by 6:30 for a gentle walk on the island-desert. We walked up a gorge littered with rocks. The flowers were varied and very beautiful - all colours - composites, elephant tree etc. Nest of Hummingbird - tiny with chick. Other birds. Crabs on rocks.

Another skiff ride - along coast close to rocks - crabs - shades of red and black - large and small. Saw Brown Boobies, Gulls, Ravens, Brown pelicans, Cormorants. In water krill - on rocks limits and barnacles - such marvellous variety. Water turquoise in colour and crystal clear - very enjoyable. 

Some people went scuba diving and others when canoeing - all very leisurely this morning - and still only 11:20.

David came to tell us about the ________ skimming over the water and half an hour later boat slowed and in the distance we could see ‘blows’ - as we drew closer - our first sighting of Sperm Whales - the biggest of the toothed whales - blow hole on left hand side of head - ventral mouth - rather like “Moby Dick” - long body - small dorsal fin and a beautiful fluke - seemed to float on the surface for ages and then up with ‘fluke’ before diving - stays down 30-40 minutes.

We saw several before lunch - in pairs, singles - pod of about 50? Also saw dorsal fin of a Marlin? Been following Sperm Whales all the afternoon in glorious sunshine - lots of sighting and some close encounters when they swan in front or to the side of the ship.

Ended day with a slide show of sea birds by David. He outlined the adaptations of seabirds to life on the water. Also saw Manta Rays flapping in the water.

Monday 5th April 2004

Spirit of Adventure

Another early start - we stayed at anchor last night off the coast of San Jose Island and then started cruising at 3am this morning. I was up at 5:15am and still had to queue for the toilet!! Some people must be up all night.

It was a spectacular start to the day because the ship was surrounded by a pod of up to 50 False Killer Whales - swimming, diving, cycling around for more than an hour. After a huge breakfast - we went on a skiff ride to the beach - rocks and pebbles of all sizes and littered with skeletons of dead fish of all descriptions and then we went for a walk on the island - main feature - Barrel Cacti and tall cacti - very impressive - like organ pipes - ridged with prickles - constrictions showing growth pattern - when water available and not available.

Lots of plants - typical of desert - water conservation - elephant tree, mallow, cucurbita - like Bryony - green/yellow flowers, photosynthetic stems. 2 kinds of Lizards and 1 snake - called Rattlesnake but without rattle. Birds as yesterday - 2 types of Woodpecker, White Winged Dove, Mocking Bird, Ravens, Black Fronted Sparrow and many others.

It was a very hot morning - 9am - well into the 70s. On our return after a drink we went on a skiff ride around the bay - again the water was crystal clear - saw some striped fish with orange tails and 2 enormous jelly-fish - effortlessly swimming in the surface layer of the water. Only birds were gulls with yellow feet!

Very, very hot now. In the bay - cruise type of ship from Seattle also doing the same type of thing as us. Scott informed us that it catered for up to 70 people - cabins with own facilities, zodiac boats - but couldn’t track and get as close to whales etc as we do!!! It goes along the coast to Alaska.

We were treated this afternoon to a spectacular display by Bottlenose Dolphins- they ‘bow rode’, the leapt in the wake of the ship, they jumped, somersaulted - they were marvellous - full of energy and enjoying every minute. They kept up this tremendous performance all the afternoon.

I mustn’t forget the ‘Manta Rays’ which ‘flew’ through the water with minimum of effort - but showed rapid turn of speed when required. They looked like space ships from Star Trek.

An exciting afternoon to complete a day which started with the False Killer Whales and it’s not yet over. Slide show after dinner by Scott on habits of different types of whales. Late to bed.

Tuesday 6th April 2004

Spirit of Adventure

Another glorious morning - sun shining from a blue, cloudless sky - warm breeze. Anchored overnight and then set off again at 4am - heading south.

Got up at 5:15 - ship accompanied by feeding Dolphin. Breakfasted on orange and scrambled egg & toast - I am eating too much. David had blueberry pikelets! with butter and maple syrup.

On our journey south passed island with nesting Blue Footed Boobies, Double Crested Cormorants and Frigate Birds. Went ashore at Los Dolores - isolated house on coast - parents, children, dog, cows - would be fine for month of perfect peace and isolation.

Walked with David L and twitchers into desert scrub - very hot although only 8am. Narrow coastal strip and towering mountain range behind. Walked up ‘river’ valley - little shade - scrub plants - Acacia etc. Saw lots of birds, some with nests.

On way back in skiff - flotilla of Black-Necked Grebes - diving etc. Now heading south again. Went ashore again - small fishing communities - everything brought in by sea - 2 skiffs came out - they had fresh water from the ship. One boat had 7 in it - 2 relatively small children and the other had 5. They fish for a living and they get supplies from the supply boat which calls once every 2 or 3 weeks.

The bay we landed on was deserted - inhabitants in La Paz for Easter celebrations. Very hard life - no fresh water etc cemetery. A very desolate place - sad feel to it.

Margaritas in plentiful supply tonight - not to my taste. Sorted out the time at last. Had a look at the stars - a beautiful clear sky - saw Orion, The Plough, Saturn, Jupiter. Anchored tonight!

Wednesday 7th April 2004

Spirit of Adventure

Another early start - 5:45. Ship moving south - sea choppy and not like a millpond as it was further up in the Sea or Cortes. Sailing quite close to peninsula - quite foggy.

Went to San Jose - to have another look at the mangroves. Now a brilliant morning. David did a beach walk and I went bird watching and for a skiff ride - saw some Snowy Egrets, Kingfishers, Osprey, 2 kinds of Heron - flying, standing, sitting still, fishing - Curlews, Sandpipers - far more than the other group. We were late returning to the ship - the boss man came to look for us - thought we were lost in the mangroves!! 

Whale watching this afternoon. Saw huge Blue Whale with its calf - mother about 80 feet long. We tracked them, found them, lost them and so on. Superb afternoon. We then went for a skiff ride around an island inhabited by birds and sea lions of all ages and sizes - babies to enormous bull whales. Little more Whale watching - found same pair again - but did not flip their flukes in farewell. Manta Rays were skipping about. 

Now heading south - our last long trip to Cabo de San Lucas and then tomorrow we start home.

Packed our belongings - still heavy - and showered and set for dinner when usual happened - ship slowed, changed direction and we were off again. I went up in front of the bridge and after a long wait we were rewarded with the sight of a Sperm Whale - after a few blows it lifted its fluke and dived. 

We had a beautiful sunset - sea and sky and clouds were pink tinged and as it became darker - another Sperm Whale surfaced and we tracked it until it dived.

We had a good dinner - steak, baked potato with butter & sour cream and green beans followed by apple tart - I passed on the foam cream. We did the bird list and the highlights of the day - everybody thanked everybody else. Mike read his version of the days afloat - hilarious - followed by Keith’s poem and John’s account of why he came - to find a mermaid - Sylvia is his mermaid. Late to bed.

Thursday 8th April 2004

Spirit of Adventure to Home

A very early start after a much disturbed night - 5am. Light breakfast - crew brought luggage up to deck.

Group photographs and crew photographs. Customs officials came aboard. Said goodbye to Wendy and crew and we were off.

Went to hotel in Cabo - no walk about - taxi to airport - 45 mins.

Queued at airport - left Cabo at 11am Los Angeles time but 12am Cabo time. 

I am shattered already!