Australia

Jan 22nd - Feb 11th 2008

Tuesday 22nd January 2008

Home to Dubai

Both home at Calvert FAR too early. Got everything done by 15.30 so had an hour to kill before we needed to leave for the airport. Not like us to be so efficient! Left for Heathrow at around 16.40 and rolled up at 17.45. Had to wait a bit for our Purple Parking man to come. If you leave too early then you have to wait - if you leave too late then you're late!

Checked in with Virgin and used their dedicated security. Very nice. Open a secret door with the bar-code on your Boarding Pass and voila. No queue and you come out next to the main security channels at Terminal 3. Put our shoes back on and walked around the corner - and there was then a second security check, just for your shoes. They were scanning people's shoes twice within the space of 20 yards. Not sure what they thought we'd picked up in 20 yards. I asked the bloke and he said "Government regulations", which, let's face it is total bull.

Went into the Virgin Lounge and had some mushroom soup and a vegetable Jalfrazzi. Nikki had a pasta dish and then we just chilled out. Nikki had her nails done, I was given copious amounts of coffee so all was well in the world.

Boarded the flight at about 20.20 - very comfortable. Taxied out for what seemed like ages. I was looking out of the window all the way and said to Nikki, we're going round in circles. Sure enough an announcement came on saying the Air Traffic Control computer in Maastricht had gone down so we'd need to return to the gate. Wonder if they'd tried turning it off and back on again! After about an hour all was fixed so we set off for the second time.

Flight was pretty uneventful - failed to sleep so ended up watching a few movies while still in my bed - nice!

Wednesday 23rd January 2008

Dubai

As we came into land in Dubai, the captain told us there'd be an "incident" on the runway so he'd need to go around again. Gave a nice view of the sea and we caught a glimpse of the latest man-made island in the sea. Couldn't make out what it was though.

Landed and were bussed to the arrivals area. Sod's law we picked the immigration queue with the slowest bloody man working on it. Seemed to take an age - about half an hour in reality.

Picked up our bags and headed off for the taxi rank and grabbed a cab. Very misty in Dubai - not what we were expecting at all. Headed out from the airport into desert - long, straight roads with thousands and thousands of lorries on them. They seemed to be everywhere. Dubai is a MASSIVE building site. There is literally no space that isn't being developed. Amazing stat that Dubai contains half the cranes on the entire planet.

Got to the hotel - about 45 minutes from the airport. Very friendly staff and very helpful. Got us checked in in about 3 minutes. Went upstairs to our room and realised they'd put us right next to the lift. Was about to complain and then realised the entire room is sound-proofed. Brilliant!

Had a kinda brunch of Snickers and KitKat and then went to bed for 3 hours!

Both woke up at 14.00 local time (09.00 UK) and didn't quite know where we were. Had a much needed shower and wandered off to find some lunch. There's a shopping arcade attached to the hotel so found a place that did veggie burgers. After lunch I decided I'd like a de-stress massage. Well, this being on holiday lark can really take it out of a man you know! Had a half hour treatment which involved a small Arab man climbing on my back. Not sure if that was the treatment or if he just took a fancy to me. Left me totally refreshed.

By now it was around 18.00 so we headed off to see the Burj al Arab - 7 star hotel. There's a Souk next to it called the Madinat Jumeirah. Took around an hour to get to because of the traffic. Plus the Marriott driver was an idiot. Took some great pictures and had a look round there before deciding we needed some dinner. Figured "When in Rome" so we had a Persian Dinner. Around 8 starters in small bowls - eggplant and onions, spinach and onions, cucumber and pomegranate. Very nice. Also had ice-cream which tasted a bit odd to me but Nikki said was flavoured with rose. My argument is, why call it vanilla then??

Got a taxi back at 22.00 - huge traffic jams with all the lorries and then sat on the balcony on a very mild evening to write this.

Tomorrow is the exciting one. First Class on Emirates - if only I knew someone who'd flown First Class before. Maybe back from India or something. Sadly I don't - so there it is.

Allah Ahkbar. 

Thursday 24th January 2008

Dubai to Sydney

Nikki:- Awoke at 05.30 for our early start (far too early - checked the paperwork when we got up and the car wasn't booked until 07.30!!!) Great sleep was had by all though. Room service breakfast arrived by 06.00. Just starting to get light outside. Fabulous breakfast, loads of coffee, fresh fruit, OJ, pastries and scrambled eggs etc - Dubai prices as well!  Bit of time on our hands before the Emirates car due to arrive, so Huw uploaded pictures from yesterday and I ironed stuff for the flight (so we look the part you understand!) 

Checkout was very smooth, and the car had arrived by 06.45 - lovely big Volvo with a very friendly Indian driver. Traffic was busy again to the airport, but mostly going in the opposite direction. Millions of lorries and buses for the workers - they start early too, poor things. Must be incredibly hard work in the heat of Summer here. 

Check in at the Emirates terminal was again - flawless...a nice young lady met us at the kerb and walked us through to an empty check in desk. We then made our way through security (only had to take shoes off the once today). The Emirates lounge was fabulous - again as expected. Could have had a full breakfast again, but instead stuck to tea and coffee (wanted to fit on the plane!) 

The plane was AMAZING!!!! Cannot speak highly enough of it or the cabin crew. Didn't really have to lift a finger for the entire flight. We had a small 'cabin' each, where you could shut the door if you wanted! The entertainment system was also brilliant - we were able to watch the take-off using the onboard front and floor cameras - great fun! Had our second breakfast of the day - cheese omelette, sauté potatoes and peppers. I also had  mushrooms - and Huw's as well. Freshly squeezed orange juice and Dom Perignon to drink, plus cappuccinos!!! We were also issued with sleep suits, slippers, eye masks and a vanity kit each (leather for the boys and suede for the girls.) Didn't want for anything - the attention to detail was excellent - even down to the fresh orchid in the vase in each cabin. Could SERIOUSLY get used to this!!! 

Had lots of fun playing with the seats and the doors for a bit - Huw's door became jammed though, so we spent another fascinating 1/2 hour watching the Purser attempting to fix it - the ground engineers were on the phone talking him through all the checks - didn't manage to fix it in the end, but that didn't really matter at all in the scheme of things. Can't expect everything to be perfect all of the time can we? 

We watched a couple of movies each and some TV, then after a lovely supper, another nice gentleman came to make up our beds for us - incredibly comfortable! Huw managed about an hour's sleep, but I didn't sleep at all, as I was enjoying every single second of the experience - didn't want to waste it by sleeping! 

So another day spent being totally spoiled rotten! 

Friday 25th January 2008

Sydney

 

Nikki:- Early morning breakfast on the plane an hour an a half before landing. Yet another fabulous meal. Another little reminder that life just can't be this perfect, when one of my new veneers fell off as I cleaned my teeth - managed to push it back on though quickly! Really didn't want to have to get off the plane at Sydney - never known 13 hours to go so quickly. 

Sun just starting to rise as we came in to land - again, we were able to watch the approach and landing from the window and the front cameras. Very sorry to leave the plane, but the Emirates experience just carried on, as we had designated 'speedy' Immigration and Customs cards issued to us on the plane. Our bags were some of the first on the baggage belt too. We then walked straight through to arrivals, where another nice man met us and took us to our car and we were whisked away to our hotel. The Marriott didn't let us down either - our room was ready for us, so we checked in straight away. We then decided to go to the Executive lounge for another breakfast (now a tradition....) and phoned a local dentist who fitted us in at 10.00. Just a 10 minute walk from the hotel - so teeth intact again, we decided to have a little nap before heading out again into Sydney.

We finally roused from our sleep at 14.00 and after a shower and change went for a wander to Circular Quay. Ate 'lunch' at the same place where we ate this time last year. Very enjoyable hour or so people watching and soaking up the atmosphere. Also purchased an Aussie mouse mat to assist with the blogging. After a brief stop back at the hotel to write post cards, we hired a cab to take us to Darling harbour for tea and another wander. Just before the cab arrived, the four lads from McFly wandered past. We saw them again from the cab. They were sightseeing like the rest of us! Checked on their website and they are here to do some filming or other - not performing, which is a shame. A fan from Queensland has set up a petition to get them to play live while they are in Oz - she was obviously very excited that they were here! Huw dropped her a message to say that we'd seen them, and that we'd previously met them and they were really nice lads. The Police were also here last night, with the Black Eyed Peas, so we've missed out on them too.

Brilliant wander round Darling Harbour, and the Wildlife World. Highlight for me was the Koala 'enclosure'. Lots of piccies and video taken. The stage and lighting rigs are up and ready in the Quay for the Australia Day celebrations tomorrow.  Had pizza for tea and then hired a 'water taxi' back to Circular Quay. Fabulous views of the Harbour Bridge - all lit up as it was dark at this stage. So - we've driven over it; walked across the top of it; and now sailed under it too. The taxi dropped us off by the Opera House, so it was a short wander back to the hotel for coffee and TimTams!!! Result!!!

Saturday 26th January 2008

Sydney

Nikki:- Beautiful sunny day here on Australia Day. Contrary to the BBC and local weather forecasts who are predicting showers. I'm very happy that they are wrong!

Both slept well - Huw was up before me, and went for a wander at 06.20. I got up at around 06.30 after a really great night's sleep. I showered and dressed and was all ready for the day by the time Huw arrived with coffee. Could things get any better?????

Breakfast in the Executive Lounge again, with fabulous views over the harbour. I'm wearing my Australian T-shirt today, which is quite appropriate I feel. Just waiting for Huw to finish his shower, then we're off to the Sydney Tower. May also go on an open topped bus tour - dependant on their running. A lot of the roads are closed off for the Australia Day celebrations, so we may be better off walking!

Huw:- Went up Sydney Tower - spectacular views across the city. Spent about half an hour up there and then came down for the Oz Trek they have. It's one of the those moving 3D movies that I often vomit on. After informing the guide, he said they had non-motion seats as well - so I took one of those! Very interesting - flying around Australia and seeing loads of things.

We then went on the mono-rail which was pretty decent. Took us across to Darling Harbour where we jumped out and had a butchers at the restaurant we’d booked for the Australia Day night celebrations.

Took an executive transport option (land train) around Darling Harbour - very posh indeed!

Got back on the mono-rail and jumped out further up Pitt Street. Wandered for about 3 blocks and then decided to head back on the bus. I think we've now used every form of transport available to us in Sydney! Lunch on Circular Quay was spent marvelling at the sheer diversity of people.

A plane flew over and wrote the word “Sorry" in huge letters above the harbour. Thought at first it was someone apologising to their wife, or something. Then realised it was an official apology from the Government of Australia to the Aboriginal people - very moving.

Came back to the hotel to watch the tall ships and the air display from our room and then both fell asleep for a couple of hours!

Got dolled up and headed out to Al Ponte in Darling Harbour to watch the fireworks etc for the Australia Day night celebrations. Really nice 4 course meal - they really looked after us. Owner had loads of pictures of famous people who'd visited his restaurant on the wall. Versace and Pavarotti to name but two. Had Bruchetta to start followed by some roasted vegetables and then a mushroom risotto. Everyone took a break at that point and headed out onto the terrace to watch the ships come in to harbour followed by the amazing fireworks. The fireworks were just jaw dropping - and the view we had was first class. None of this slumming it this year!

After the display we came back to our table to find the main course just arriving! And then ice-cream - pretty good if you ask me.

At about 23.00 we were both flagging so caught the mono-rail around to Pitt Street and grabbed a cab back to the hotel.

What a truly amazing day!

Sunday 27th January 2008

Sydney to Hamilton Island

Nikki: - Not quite the lie in that we had hoped for...I was wide awake at 06.45!!! Accidentally woke Huw by turning the kettle on for a nice cup of tea (oops!) Another beautiful warm, sunny day. A few white clouds, but nothing major to worry about. Breakfast in the Executive Lounge again - very nice! Relaxing/leisurely morning packing the cases for the next part of the adventure. Funny - the cases are much fuller even though we haven't bought anything extra to put in them (???????).  Had a wander down the road whilst Huw was showering to 'visit' Starbucks. Brought him back a latte to make amends for the early awakening (it helped!) Taxi to the airport and a very straightforward check in and security check. We're sat in one of the cafes in the Domestic Terminal at Sydney Airport. Unfortunately, they are showing a Liverpool match on all of the screens - but you can't have it all. We are pretty much in the same place as we were last year, waiting for the flight to Melbourne. Deja Vu!!! Check the piccies from Australia 2007 for a piccie of a Virgin Blue plane, and Huw 'blogging'. For the sake of completeness, have taken another photo of him.

Not a full flight by any means. Because Queensland do not operate Daylight Saving Time, the flight we thought was 1 hour, is actually 2 hours! We are now an hour behind Sydney, so 10 hours ahead of UK time. Confused? Absolutely.

Huw:- One thing worth mentioning about the flight is the coffee you get offered. I ordered one and was brought a cup of hot water and a "coffee-bag". Can you imagine such a thing? I know odd tea drinkers may be used to such indignities - but not us coffee drinkers. Anyway, I punched the Steward repeatedly and threatened to take over the plane. I thought we should fly to Columbia, or at least to the nearest Starbucks. Atrocious behaviour. Naturally the Captain calmed me down but when I explained the situation to him he was appalled - he had no idea what horrors were being perpetrated in his name in the passenger cabin. And then I woke up from my lack of caffeine induced nightmare.

Nikki:- The warmth completely hits you when you step down from the plane - lovely!!! Took my fleece off pretty quickly!  Those who know me well, that should tell you how warm it is!!! The 'terminal building' is not much more than a large shed - but it is air conditioned. Everyone is very friendly indeed. Someone from the Beach Club (where we are staying) was there waiting for us, with our name on a board. They came and collected our bags and put them and us onto a dinky (air conditioned) bus. The journey time to the resort must have been a whole 10 minutes! Apparently you can get around the entire island in under an hour. The only mode of transport, apart from the few transfer dinky buses, is golf buggy! We have to get us one of those!!!

We think the entire island is pretty much owned by the same company, so everything is very straightforward. We were given a brief introduction and individual check in of the room - explaining everything. We get free golf buggy transfers to wherever we want to go on the island by the Beach Club staff. Then, when we want to come back, we ask anyone in a shop or restaurant to call them, and they come and pick us up again - cool! The hotel itself is truly wonderful, and the infinity pool is out of this world! We didn't waste much time changing into bathers and hitting the private beach! Sea is lovely and warm - and we would have to be "very, very unlucky" to be stung by a jellyfish here. When we asked, the staff said they bathed in the sea all the time, and had never encountered anyone being stung. We then took a leisurely dip in the pool. Staff are on hand for drinks/snacks to be brought to us pool side or on the beach. 

Whilst we were lazing by the pool, a wedding party came in, so we watched while they all had the photos taken by the pool, feeling ever so slightly sorry for them in their posh frilly frocks and ridiculously high heels (the girls that is). After a lovely shower, we then went for a meal in the 'town' via chauffeur driven golf buggy. Really nice Italian meal, and again, incredibly friendly staff. 

We then had a little wander through the town - there is a bakery, a couple of restaurants, a convenience store, gift shop, clothes shop....and that's pretty much it! The lady in the clothes shop rang the Beach Club for us, and within minutes, the very friendly girl from the hotel was there to pick us up! In bed by 21.00!

Monday 28th January 2008

Hamilton Island

Huw:- VERY odd night's sleep. Woke at about 02.00 to the sound of water and went to investigate. Thought "Nikki's having a shower??". Got to the bathroom and found the lights off. Thought "Nikki's having a shower in the dark??". Realised the shower was off and figured the water was outside and thought "Nikki's having a shower in the dark, outside??" Opened the door and found a chap hosing down the walkway outside the room. Nikki was still asleep.

Woke again at about 06.30 to the sun streaming into the room - Nikki made coffee and we gently surfaced. Sat on the balcony for a bit before deciding to head for breakfast at about 07.30. Gorgeous food - loads of fruit and cereal and then a menu of various eggs. Ate overlooking the infinity pool - was getting warm by this time.

We obviously need a Golf Buggy to get around this huge island so set off to sort that. A couple had managed to turn theirs over the night before and they were at the rental place looking very sorry for themselves with bandaged arms etc. We got ours - £70 for three days - and set off on a tour of the island. Went up to One Tree Hill which gives a 360 degree view of the Whitsundays. Totally breathtaking. Headed back to the Koala Sanctuary where we had a bit of a tour around. Got to pat a Dingo and a small Kangaroo and then they brought out a baby Koala. We had our picture taken with him and got to hold him - I'll let Nikki wax lyrical about that further down the page. I'm a man - I stick mainly to facts!

Came back to the hotel and sat by the pool for an hour or so before needing to head back in to the comfort of an air-conditioned room. Actually I'm in the room - Nikki is still on our terrace where it’s up in the 90's!

Nikki : - The little baby koala was absolutely GORGEOUS!!! Such a sweet little fella. He is only 10 months old, and his fur was really, really soft and smelt lovely! After reading about people being handed smelly, dirty koalas on such activities, I was very happy to report that this was a wonderful experience. All of the koalas looked really content and well cared for.  The girl that was showing us around let us both hold him for our official photos, and then was happy to hand him back to us for another cuddle and so we could take our own photos. Very nicely done Hamilton Island!!! We may come back here again tomorrow to see some of the other animals they have here - especially the crocodiles and snakes!

After driving down to the 'metropolis' for a coffee and a cake, we then hit the pool for a nice relax and swim. We then had a fabulous late, light lunch by the pool - beautifully presented. Basically, we completely ignored the menu and they made exactly what we wanted - spectacular service. After a little relax back at the room (Huw inside with the air conditioning, and me on the balcony in the warm). We then showered and changed and 'drove' up to One Tree Hill to watch the sunset - quite a few other people joining us, so had to find a parking place first!!! Fabulous sunset over the lush green mountainous islands. Lots of photos taken. We then followed the little trail of golf buggies back down the island and went to play mini golf (now a well established holiday activity). Huw won the golf convincingly, so he got to drive home - well to the hotel anyway. We had a little browse through the activities booklet at reception, and asked them to reserve us a table at another one of the restaurants in the town. We didn't need a lift tonight, as we had our own wheels!

Very nice meal, once again, confirming that this holiday is all about staggering from one meal to the next! Both very tired when we got back to our room, so we had a coffee and went straight to sleep - well it was all of 22.00!!! Another fantastic day!

Tuesday 29th January 2008

Hamilton Island

Nikki : - Awoke early (05.15), but mindful of my previous error, I went and sat on the balcony quietly, like a good girl.  Made a cup of tea at 06.00, showered and dressed. Huw got up at just after 07.00, and we traversed the staircase down to breakfast. We’d booked a seaplane trip to Whitehaven Beach - just 15 minutes journey time, so Huw's travel sickness wouldn't be an issue. Whitehaven Beach is in the top 10 beaches in the World, and the No 1 in Australia - so it would be a sin to miss it! We elected to drive ourselves to the airport (a whole 5 minute trip), and parked right by the plane, which was the other side of the fence - never before have we been able to park so close to our plane!! When we 'checked in' the staff said that we had been upgraded to a tour of the Great Barrier Reef as well - a 50 minute trip each way....Huw had to explain why we had opted for the short trip. Anyway a few minutes later, they came back to us and said they could take us in a helicopter to Whitehaven instead. We had our own private helicopter and pilot!!! It was absolutely fantastic - the pilot was terrific. He told us the names of all the islands, and brief histories and pointed out sharks, rays and turtles in the sea. Wow!!! The beach itself is a 4km stretch of the whitest sand you have ever seen. Contrasting vividly against the green of the forest, the turquoise of the sea and the blue of the sky. The helicopter landed on the beach, and we had an hour and a half to wander the beach, which we had to ourselves. LOADS of piccies taken, as any words I can write here just couldn't do it justice. The helicopter trip back was equally fabulous - we even flew over George Harrison’s old place. We videoed both journeys as again, words could not begin to describe the experience.

Drove back to the hotel; stopping for coffee on the way. Back at base - Huw tried valiantly to get the photos to upload - but to no avail! We think there may be a limit on the amount we can upload on the hotel's bandwidth. We'll have to try again in Port Douglas.....watch this space.

We went for lunch in a little deli in the town - very nice sandwiches, then as the ice cream parlour was next door, we felt compelled to have desert there! It's such a hard life! Stopped off at the camera place on the way back up to the hotel for a couple of films for the video camera then back to the hotel for a quick change. We then hit the pool and had a very leisurely swim and drinks. Took a couple of piccies as well for good measure.

After a shower and change, we went back out for dinner in the buggy. Settled on the fish and chip shop on the harbour.  Really cool system, you order and pay then are given what looked like a remote control, which flashes when your order is ready!!! A lot of people were out and about from the other hotels as well. Took our last trip back to the hotel in our buggy, but decided to take a detour up to One Tree Hill - BIG mistake. We'd just got to the top, when it started belting it down with rain! Suddenly very noticeable that the buggy didn't have any sides! Saw lots of very odd looking birds, but we didn't hang round long enough to get acquainted. We motored it back down the hill, and very sadly posted the keys back in the rental key return box. Huw VERY sad about this - almost inconsolable..

Tried again to upload the photos from the day - unsuccessfully again.

As we were both falling asleep sat down we went to bed - time just after 21.00. Set the alarm though, as an early start in the morning for our flight to Cairns.

Wednesday 30th January 2008

Hamilton Island to Cairns

Nikki : - Early-ish start, and down to our last breakfast on Hamilton Island (ahhh). We'd mostly packed everything last night, so it was just last minutes bits and bobs. Sky a LOT cloudier today, and it feels more humid than yesterday. The chap came and collected our cases at 07.45 and we went down to reception to settle our bill. They then took us and another couple to the airport in the Beach Club buggy. Cases were there already, so we queued for check in at the Qantas desk - VERY hot and sticky at this point. We were in the queue behind a film crew with cases and boxes of all their equipment. We'd just checked in and started to walk over to security when the rain started - not just any old rain - heavy tropical downpour! We sure picked the right 3 days to be here. Really felt for the people arriving today in their shorts and T-shirts, having to make a run for the terminal building from the plane. 

Lucky for us though, having stayed at the Beach Club, we were entitled to use the one and only airport lounge. This was fully air conditioned, with tea/coffee and comfy chairs. We watched the rain from this comfortable, cool, dry vantage point! Took some video too. Rain cleared slightly for when we had to walk to the plane. 

We were in seats 1A and 1B, so were able to chat to the cabin crew about the flight and the weather up in Cairns (they'd just flown down from there). Tiny little plane, with the steps that fold down from the door. Only about 30 people on the plane, and it was full! Had to wait on the runway for a few minutes to refuel, then we were off. The Captain did warn us about a bumpy ride - and he wasn't wrong! We were flying through Tropical Storm Jean. Skies cleared after an hour and we had terrific views of the Great Barrier Reef before landing. 

We were first off the plane, straight through to baggage reclaim, where I waited for the cases whilst Huw checked in with Avis, who were incredibly helpful. We then walked over to the Avis car lot in the scorching heat and bright sunshine, and picked up our monster of a car. Big Mitsubishi 4-wheel drive - although I think Huw would have preferred his golf buggy still! About an hour's drive to Port Douglas on the Captain Cook Highway - very scenic road. Between tropical forest on the left and beautiful blue ocean to the right. Did stop at a couple of places to take in the views and take some piccies. 

Arrived at The Sea Temple resort and Spa around 11.30 - lots of different sized apartments around a HUGE pool. We checked in - again very helpful staff, and drove round to our apartment. Very new, modern and stylish - however had a horrible smell of damp. We rang reception and they sent round someone from housekeeping. Meanwhile we found the air conditioning was off, so put that on pretty quickly. We did the usual looking round thing - trying every button and switch.  It is a 2 bedroom apartment, with an outside lounge area, a top of the range kitchen, a dining area and spacious lounge with flat screen TV. We'd discovered that the remote for the TV didn't work, plus I'd found a huge cobweb under one of the stools and a really mean looking spider - OK, it was less than the size of my fingernail - but it had a look about it of pure evil! Another call to reception...stressing that I wasn't normally afraid of little spiders, but in tropical Australia, I most certainly was! Housekeeping lady came to save the day - she set up a de-humidifier and also put some air freshener thing into the air conditioning. She also took the cobwebbed stool outside  and gave it a damn good clean. As for the spider, she assured us it wasn't poisonous and swept him out of the door. She said the poisonous ones had longer legs, a bit of red on their body, and would be found on the foliage outside! Another 2 chaps came to check the smell of the room, and put batteries into the remote. Housekeeping lady came again to check everything was alright!

After all this excitement, we went over to the Resort restaurant and had a lovely lunch - followed by a marvellous swim in the pool. We went all the way round it - one very well designed pool. Quite the biggest pool either of us had ever been in.  A bit exhausted after that, so we had a siesta, then Huw tried once again to upload the photos onto the website - unsuccessfully. He tried several different ways of doing it - to no avail. Meanwhile, a little yellow humming bird tried to fly in, and then started shouting at himself in the mirror!  At around 20.00 we decided to drive into Port Douglas for some more milk and some tea. Then the rain started again - torrential at times. Difficult to find your way around in the dark and with the heavy rain, but we did manage to find somewhere to eat, and another place to buy milk. Port Douglas really is a backpackers and gap year haven. In the restaurant, everyone seemed to be British! Expect they are here (like us) for the Great Barrier Reef experience.

Well, we left them all in their Port Douglas dormitories, and returned to our Spa Resort like the snobs we are! Too old for that kind of nonsense.

Thursday 31st January 2008

Port Douglas

Nikki : - Woke early again. Not a problem here, as I could come into the kitchen to make a nice cup of tea without disturbing anyone! Sat in the lounge now, starting today's' blog. We are going to be picked up from the resort reception today at 10.40 for the helicopter trip to the Agincourt reef. I did ring them yesterday to check and they said everything was "all set" for us. Snorkels, masks and flippers are all supplied, and we can hire stinger suits as well. All good things!  All we need is a bit of cash for drinks, towels, cameras and sun block. Very exciting!!!

After a very nice leisurely breakfast, we packed our little rucksack and camera bag and waited in reception for our transport. A man arrived in a great big bus for just the two of us. He weighed us (the only painful part) and gave us some leaflets about the helicopter and the reef pontoon itself. Truth be told, we were both a bit apprehensive at this stage.  Reports on Trip Advisor did mention that it was crowded, no-one was around to help and that it was a scrum to get any lunch. The bus took us on a 5 minute trip to the Mirage Hotel Complex where the helipad was. A very nice lady then met us and went through the helicopter safety briefing and answered any questions - the excellent news was that we were the only people taking the helicopter to the reef, whilst everyone else would arrive by boat. The other good news was that there would only be around 200 people on the pontoon, whereas they normally cater for 450 - all good stuff!

Helicopter then arrived, piloted by Nigel (who looked like Shane Warne), and we found out he was British - from Monmouth!  Small world. He found out we liked spotting critters, so tried to gear the flight to what we liked. Firstly we flew North over the Daintree river and rainforest - we didn't see any crocs though. Apparently it is warm enough for them to stay in the water at the moment, so they don't need to come ashore to bask - so a croc watching boat ride wouldn't be very good for the same reason. We then flew East over Four Mile Beach and out towards the reef. There was some 'weather' on the way, so we had a bit of rain, but he managed to fly all the way around it, so we had clear skies for 95% of the trip. He flew lower over some of the reefs and pointed out a huge Manta Ray swimming on one and took us lower to get a much closer look! He said that there wouldn't be any Great Whites as the water is too warm for them here, and the only 'grumpy' sharks that may be around would be Tiger Sharks and Hammerheads. We are more likely to come across the black tipped reef sharks which are no bother at all. Huw spotted another Manta Ray on the next reef, so we had a closer look at that one too - wicked! All too soon, we arrived at the helipad, and landed very smoothly. We then had to get onto a transfer boat to the pontoon, which was only a couple of minutes, and although it was fairly choppy, Huw was fine.

On the pontoon, a guy met us and explained where everything was and what to do. The boat had docked before our arrival, so everyone else was wandering around in the bright blue stinger suits. It would have been very comical, if it were not for the fact that we would be joining them very shortly! We had a wander round - there are two decks, plus you can wander over on to the boat as well; there is also an underwater viewing deck. There were also changing rooms, showers, loos and a huge buffet set out, plus loads of tables and chairs. We had no trouble at all, although it would definitely have been a lot more crowded with double the number of people on board. We hired our stinger suits and changed into them - bit of a struggle but we got there, and joined the other Smurfs. There was no queue for lunch, but we were far too keen to get into the water to be bothered with boring stuff like eating! There is an area where you pick up your mask, flippers and snorkel and floatation jackets for anyone who isn't a confident swimmer. You then sit on a bench with your feet in the water and get yourself sorted - with brightly coloured fish swimming over your feet already. Then you can get down onto a submerged mesh shelf and just push yourself off into the sea. Instantly, you are surrounded with thousands of fish - all colours and sizes...AMAZING! There are two different areas to swim in - one area for people who aren't too confident, and another which goes out much further. Both are clearly marked with yellow and white coloured buoys. I'd bought a laminated card to identify the fish - however, this proved to be more of a hindrance, as it 'dragged' in the water, and I didn't want to hit any fishes on the nose with it! Huw had the underwater camera that he'd had for Christmas - but it didn't work! We swam back to the pontoon and bought ourselves another camera, and left the fish identification card with our other stuff. Huw ditched his flippers as well. Once again into the sea - actually fewer people now, as a lot were having lunch. Had our photos taken underwater (very weird!), and watched some people doing a seabed walk with goldfish bowl-type helmets on, with oxygen piped directly to them - how cool! We swam on to a spot we'd found at the farthest marked area, where the coral was very shallow - touchable in places (although we'd had VERY strict instructions NOT to touch the fish or the coral.) Huw managed to take some brilliant piccies with his new camera. We somehow managed to lose each other, but knew we couldn't be far away! The most brilliant snorkelling I have ever done. Near to the pontoon, they fed some of the fish - I was absolutely and completely surrounded by fish! Impossible not to touch them at this point.  There were some pretty big fish too - about a metre in length some of them, and bright, bright colours. Even some of the coral in places was a vivid electric blue colour. Saw loads of anemones, clams and fish - but didn't see Nemo sadly. After about an hour, I made my way back to the pontoon, where Huw was stood waving at me! Knew he hadn't got far! We decided to take a break and grab something to drink and a quick bite to eat. The buffet had been cleared, but they had saved loads for people (like us), that had been lost in the excitement of the snorkelling and diving. As we only had half an hour left before our helicopter was due to take us back, we decided to go and have a look at the submersed deck - amazing. You could also see all the scuba divers in their area too. After this, we changed back into civvies (easier to take the stinger suit off than to put it on!). Up on the top deck were displayed all the photographs that had been taken - we looked and looked, but everyone looked exactly the same! We couldn't find us at all! Oh well - we knew we had been there!

We went to the meet point for the transfer boat back to the helicopter pad. There was another chap coming back with us - he was obviously not very well at all - he'd come over to the pontoon in the boat and had been very seasick poor thing.  So Huw and I sat in the back whilst he had the front seat. Nigel was our captain again, and he flew us on a different route back so we could see some more of the reef. We flew over Bat Reef where Steve Irwin was killed by a sting ray. Huw saw some, but due to the poor chap in the front seat, we didn't have a swoop down to investigate this time. All too soon, we were back at the landing site, where the bus driver was there to take us back to the Sea Temple.

Friday 1st February 2008

Port Douglas

Huw:- A lazy start to the morning - both exhausted after yesterday's exertions. Pottered around the apartment for a few hours and decided to head north at about 11.00.

Drove to the Daintree area - about 30 miles north of Port Douglas. Well in to the rainforest at this stage. Had seen some great reviews for a place called the Daintree Mangroves Wildlife Sanctuary. It totally lived up to the promise. The woman who runs it came and chatted to us for ages about the animals. She had a parrot that took quite a shine to Nikki - he tried to get her hat, glasses and watch off. Apparently he's attracted to the ladies!

Wandered around to see the crocs and the cassowaries before heading for the kangaroo enclosure. Nikki got to hand feed three roos, while I stood and filmed. Didn't fancy three kangas nibbling me for bread.

Next up we drove to Daintree Village which was deserted. It's low/wet season at the moment - most of the tourists come in the Australian Winter which is June-September. Had a spot of lunch in the village and went to see the woman in the tourist information point about crocodile spotting boat trips. She told us there was little chance of seeing a croc in the wild - but that if we wanted to we could go on a trip which departed in 5 mins. Drove down to the marina and got a boat with Jan. He's a local fella who's knowledge was outstanding. He'd hear a tweet from the bush and could point out what bird it was immediately. He was a local and had gone to school and been taught to swim in the croc infested river. He pointed out that they'd been taught in shallow sections where you could see 50 metres in either direction so you had time to get out if a croc approached. I told him I'd been taught to swim at Aberdare Swimming Pool where I'd once caught a verruca and he conceded I was, by far, the bravest!

We headed down river and found a croc sunning himself on the bank. Big fella too - about 10 feet long. We pulled up alongside him and he lazily opened an eye and watched us. Took quite a few pics of him. We had a Dutch man in the boat with us who was obsessed with the cattle grazing on the opposite bank. He kept asking things like, "Show if thee crocodeel grabbed a cow - would hee eeeat it whoole?" "Show who would win in a fight - the crocodeel or thee cow?" Jan's response was generally, "Eh, the croc mate"

Went down river a bit further and found a snake sunning itself on a tree. He was quite small and well camouflaged in the hibiscus. Very pretty colouring. We also saw a Kingfisher and a rather large lizard!

When we got back to the car we headed further up into the Cape Tribulation area. Had to get a ferry across the river - everything heading north to Cape York has to go on the ferry. It's a 1000 miles straight up from Cairns to Cape York. Where we were staying in Port Douglas is 50 miles north of Cairns and we'd driven 50 miles north of that to the Daintree so you can see the scale of the place. The paved roads stop just after Daintree so it's dirt track for the remaining 900 miles. Strewth! Probably better than Oxfordshire roads though!

Headed back at about 18.00 and went into Port Douglas to the supermarket. Got some bread and cheese and had a picnic in the room. Then it was time to pack ready for our flight to Perth tomorrow. Early night too - both in bed by 21.00.

Saturday 2nd February 2008

Cairns to Perth

Nikki:- Ridiculously early start. Alarm call at 05.15. We had to catch an 08.50 flight out of Cairns to Ayres Rock, and then on to Perth. Made toast and coffee in the apartment (I know....COOKING!!!). Started the drive back down from Port Douglas to Cairns, and true to form, it started monsooning with rain (they don't call it the rainy season for nothing!).  Lovely drive back down the Captain Cook Highway, only stopping for diesel before heading to the airport internal terminal. Had a few minutes of frustration when we couldn't find the button to undo the petrol cap but after consulting the manual we got there - ignoring the locals finding it hard not to laugh at the poor Poms. Cairns is a lovely airport - really straightforward and extremely friendly staff once again. Once through security, we settled in the lounge for a quick cuppa and managed to Skype back home - where it was still yesterday evening! Huw had been bitten by every mossie in Daintree yesterday, so bought a little 'zapper' thing to help with the itching...not terribly effective, but it kept him occupied for a bit!

Pretty straightforward flight to Ayres Rock, where we then got off the plane into the scorching heat and took some photos. Twenty minutes later, we re-boarded the same plane, not before buying some sarnies at the only shop in the terminal (as the plane hadn't received our veggie order). They were VERY apologetic - not a big deal - but I received a "thank you for being so lovely about it" from the cabin crew.

Huw:- Watched 2 episodes of The West Wing on the iPod and had a doze and we were in Perth. Got the bags and headed off to the hotel. Last time we were here we had a crappy experience with Rydges Perth - this time they couldn't have been better. Checked us in within minutes and off to the room. It's a 16 story hotel in a city where there's not a huge amount of high-rise, so spectacular views from our 15th floor room.

Watched some TV - Heath Ledger's body is being returned to Perth in the next day or so, so that's dominating the news. Saw an advert for The Police playing in Perth this evening so we thought, let's have a crack at that then. Went on to Ticketmaster and managed to get a couple of tickets. Spent ages in our window trying to figure out where the stadium was - worked out using Google Earth that it was about 0.8 miles as the crow flies. We bought our tickets and printed them out on the printer in the business centre.

Had some tea at a nice restaurant just up Hay Street - run by a Scottish woman with a Welsh waitress. Nice food. We then grabbed a cab to the Members Equity Stadium. It's an Aussie Rules Football ground I think, so was quite small. 18,000 capacity. Found our seats and settled down only to then find we had the wrong seats so had to move! Eventually got to the right place and watched an excellent show. Wonderful musicianship and Sting's voice is still as crystal clear as ever. Knew about 80% of the hits - Don't Stand So Close To Me, Roxanne, Walking On The Moon etc. A few we didn't know but we just watched the sun setting over the Perth skyline until they'd finished those!

Came out just before the obligatory encore and managed to find a cab right outside to bring us back to the hotel. As I write this I'm sat in air-conditioned splendour being brought a coffee by my lovely wife!

Well at least we can now say we went to Perth to see The Police - sure beats Billy Joel in Rome or Michael Jackson in New York in terms of distance if not in terms of actually planning to go to the gig in the first place.

Tomorrow a bit of a lie in and off to Exmouth.

Sunday 3rd February 2008

Perth to Exmouth

Nikki:- Quite a leisurely start to the day, as our flight wasn't until midday. Had a bit of a wait for brekkie though, and when it did eventually come, it wasn't what we'd ordered. Fine - not something to get stressed over! However, when we got the bill for stuff we hadn't had, I did make a comment (quite politely, I feel). Anyway, when we checked out, we hadn't been charged for it at all...result! I think Stuart may have been proud of me!

Bit of a delay on the flight, we were sat on the tarmac for almost an hour, as the numbers didn't add up to who was supposed to be on the flight (?????). Then 2 children boarded - travelling alone, and we were off. Some cloud and a bit of turbulence, but otherwise a great flight with terrific views. Most especially when we flew over the coast - deep blues, turquoise and greens against vivid red and white sand. Finally arrived at Learmonth airport, collected our bags and car, and started the short drive to Exmouth. Pleased to get into the air conditioned car, as it was a heady 110 degrees outside!  The lady at the car rental desk warned us about the wild emus - we told her we knew from last year. Apparently there are far more of them now, and they wander everywhere, including up and down the roads.

Arrived at the Novotel - the harbour they were building last year is practically finished now. There are quite a few boats here now, and a dinky little footbridge across it. We are in a room on the other side of the pool and on the ground floor this time (so no lugging cases upstairs!). There do seem to be a lot more sand flies about this year....so plenty of insect repellent used! After unpacking (yes, as we are here for almost a week, we decided not to live out of suitcases for a change!), we took a drive into the town. The lady was right about the emus!!! We counted 10 in under a minute! We found the fab internet place that we utilised to great effect last year, and a couple new places have been built. Otherwise, Exmouth is pretty much the way we left it! The supermarket was open, so we bought a few provisions and went back to the hotel.

Had a bit of a lazy afternoon, watched a bit of Kath and Kim and drank lots of juice and coffee. VERY warm on the balcony and still lots of horrible flies. Huw checked with reception, and because the rooms are 'tornado proof', the WiFi doesn't work inside - but it does in reception and on the balconies. Did some research regarding new places to eat etc and attempted to upload some more piccies to the blog - no luck. We've had real problems with the website this year - don't really know why. Anyway - at least we can still write the blog and upload it as and when!

Huw:- Decided it was time for some nose-bag at about 20.00. The question was, which of Exmouth's many eateries would we frequent. Would it be the Chinese (closed) or the Italian (closed). EVERYTHING in Exmouth closes at 21.00 - that's assuming they were open in the first place! Looked on the net and found that the Pot Shot Resort had a Bistro so we went there. It's basically a backpackers place with an office canteen type of place where you order at the counter and they give you a buzzer which goes off when your food is ready. Amazed by the menu. It was five star food in a one star setting. I had Bruschetta which was huge and Nikki had Breaded Camembert - both beautifully presented. We then had a Caesar Salad without the chicken which again was too darn big! Whole meal including drinks came to $50 - about £22. Result.

Headed back to the hotel - the emus were sleeping by this point so no dodging required. Watched a bit of Bruce Almighty and by that time we were ready to turn in at about 22.30. Good day.

Monday 4th February 2008

Exmouth

Nikki:- Woke early, but just pottered about until breakfast. Very nice breakfast and coffee. Next stop was the dive shop for our supplies - all bought successfully. The lady in the shop remembered us from last year! Next stop was the garage for ice and packed lunch for the Eski. They make sandwiches to order! Also bought plenty of water of course, and double checked we had enough petrol.

We started out into the Ningaloo Reserve at around 11.00 (to be at the beaches for high tide). Didn't spot a single kangaroo! Firstly we went to Mangrove Bay, where the baby sharks were last year...didn't see a single one! Huw saw something with two close together dorsal fins - but couldn't make out what it was. We were both accompanied in our snorkelling by Surgeon Fish - Huw had two little friends and I had 3! They stayed with us until we got out of the sea!

Next stop was the fabulous Turquoise Bay. We had a spot of lunch and then headed onto the beach. This is where there are quite strong currents. We found a good system last year, walking along the beautiful beach to the left, swimming out like a little devil as hard as you can, then floating back with the current. We did exactly the same thing again this year.  First 'trip' we saw black tipped reef sharks (around 8 foot long), a starfish, thousands of varying sized fish, loads of sea cucumbers and I saw a HUGE turtle!!!! Unfortunately, the current is so strong, it is virtually impossible to stay in one place, so I couldn't watch him for long.  Couldn't see Huw either to attract his attention (he had the underwater camera). I did look into shore to 'mark' where I had seen him against the landmarks on the beach - luckily it was where we had tied our bright yellow towels. We did 3 more trips, but didn't see turtle again. Did see the sharks though, and Huw managed to photograph one - very tricky as they don't hang around to pose! 

We then drove back to Exmouth - spotting loads of kangaroos and emus! Great day for critter spotting!!! After a shower and change of clothes we went back into Exmouth for a spot of tea and to purchase some citronella candles to counteract the flies and mossies. Had a fabulous tea at a cafe in the town - egg and chips! Just what was needed. I even had a beer (XXXX of course). Once again, the staff were incredibly helpful and friendly - couldn't do enough for us.

As the sun was starting to set, we drove over to the lighthouse to watch it from a great vantage point. We weren't the only ones - around half a dozen cars were there - some with camping chairs set out to watch the sun. Beautiful to see the sun just melt into the sea. We've watched the sun setting on both coasts of Australia now!

On the drive back to Exmouth, we saw around another dozen kangaroos hopping around. We sat on our terrace (surrounded by lit citronella candles) after this fantastic day, and Skyped the folks back home.

We have been SOOOO lucky with the weather too; since we left the East coast, they have had non stop rain and flash floods - even in Sydney! Perth too, has had storms since we left, and is due to be sunny again on Friday when we are back there!  Unbelievable luck.

Tuesday 5th February 2008

Exmouth

Nikki:- Leisurely start to the day and another great brekkie. We then drove to the Internet cafe to do some serious website updating... problem solved (fingers crossed!). The internet service at the hotel only has download capability, so when we tried to update the index, it overwrote it and wiped it out! Back now. Chappie in the shop was the same as last year - still really helpful. He gave us another hot tip for a great snorkelling place - a place called 'Oyster Stacks'. They also do a glass bottomed boat trip with a chance for snorkelling further out too. May do this on Thursday.

Filled up the Eski with garage made-to-order sarnies, water and ice. We then went in search of cheap T-shirts to wear when snorkelling, as despite much slapping of factor 50, our backs got a bit pink yesterday. A couple of people directed us to a second hand place. It was more a garage with loads of clothes hung up and in boxes. We soon found a T-shirt each for a whole $2 - we gave considerably more as it was in aid of the Flying Doctors!

Filled up the car and drove out to Oyster Stacks. It's further down the west coast than we have been before - took around an hour to get there, but certainly well worth the trip. There isn't a beach as such - just rocks into the sea. Loads of crabs scuttling onto them with every wave. It was a little bit slippery, but we managed the descent without any bother. The BEST bit about this place is that you are immediately on a reef and in knee high warm water! Huge fish swimming around you straight away, and HUNDREDS of sea cucumbers. Absolutely amazing reefs and thousands and thousands of fish. We did see a 10 foot black tipped reef shark wandering around as well.

Huw:- After some much needed lunch we headed off to Turquoise Bay. The tide was in and the sea was as calm as you like. The current wasn't too bad at all so we headed out to see what we could see. It was lovely and warm again - like a bath. We both had our t-shirts on and I was wearing my hat as well to keep the sun off my delicate features. Did three loops which took about two and a half hours. Saw a huge variety of fish and another black tipped reef shark. Loads of starfish and beautiful coral. It's amazing swimming with sharks. Every time I see one I almost feel like I should report it to someone. The sharks are totally disinterested in you swimming by. Totally ignore you and get on with whatever they're doing. As we walked up the beach, one came within a foot of the shore. We could see his dorsal fin above the water as he went by. It was almost like he was taunting us because he knew we didn't have our dive gear on and even if we had we wouldn't have caught up with him! Nikki saw one blue spotted ray, but no turtles, and I did see a Moray Eel. Nasty looking bugger. Gave him a wide berth.

Left the Cape Range National Park at about 17.00 and drove back to Exmouth. Once back in the room we stripped off for a shower and then it became apparent just how lobster we were. Because we'd been lying face down in the water all day our backs and legs had caught the sun - despite Factor 50 and t-shirts! Loads of after-sun needed. I dozed off on the bed while my after-sun was drying - Home & Away was on the TV so not surprising really.

Went off to the Pot Shot for dinner. We'd been very impressed with the 5 star meal in 1 star surroundings on Sunday night. They didn't disappoint tonight either. Both had a stir-fry which was delicious. Followed that with a Malteaser Mud Pie and a Tirimisu. Very healthy.

Back in the room by 21.00 and pretty much ready for bed. We're now working out how NOT to get sunburned in 40 degree sunshine while lying face down in water. Any suggestions?

Wednesday 6th February 2008

Exmouth

Huw:- Another quiet start to the day - got up about 08.30 and headed off for breakfast. Very nice - cereal and toast and loads of coffee.

Went to the Internet Cafe to upload the Blog and find out about a glass bottomed boat tour of the bay tomorrow. Booked ourselves on that - 08.15 start - we'll need an alarm call. Got chatting to the fella in the internet place about protecting ourselves from the sun and he suggested we get some rashies. He told us to go and see Stevo in the fishing shop which we did and he kitted us out. Rashies are UV protecting shirts basically. I looked like a well packed Salami but at least I won't look like a lobster. We got Nikki some shorts as well and off we went for our morning stop at the Petrol Station.

Each day we pick up our provisions and this morning the girl there said, "Usual guys?" - so it seems we're being remembered! Got our sarnies, drinks and ice for the Eski and headed off to Oyster Stacks.

Takes about a hour to get there - I got suntan lotion in my eyes so Nikki drove. Got kitted out in our rashies and my attractive hat I swim in and started snorkelling. The coral reef starts literally three steps away from the rocks so the minute you get in and stick your head under you get hundreds and hundreds of fish. I've been taking loads of underwater pictures but I can't get them developed because the Pharmacy in town has a problem with its machine - they need a part sent up from Perth which will take 3 days by lorry!

Spend about an hour and a half snorkelling and then came in for some lunch in the car. I felt knackered so we headed back to the hotel. Had a shower and then dozed off on the bed for an hour - it's a hard life this holidaying. I'm happy to offer holidaying as a word. Was watching ABC America this morning and they used the phrase "so-and-so is the winningest coach in the team’s history".

Went back out at about 19.00 to see about taking some pictures of kangaroos. As we drove into town there was a 3 or 4 foot lizard walking across the road. Stopped and took some pics of him - very prehistoric. Felt a  bit peckish so found a pizza place open (just). Had a lovely pizza sitting outside with all the flies and mozzies!

We then decided to head out of town for about 10 miles to see if we could get some pictures of Kangaroos. Saw a few but nothing we could get a picture of. Feeling frustrated we came back to Exmouth and there were 7 of the buggers in the main street. Sod's law isn't it?

Am again sitting on the balcony writing this - have just booked our early call for 06.30 tomorrow morning - and so to bed.

Thursday 7th February 2008

Exmouth

Huw:- A VERY early start - alarm call at 06.30 in time for our boat trip. I didn't sleep too well - think I was pre-boat anxious. Got ready to get up at one point and asked Nikki what time it was. 02.41 came the annoyed answer!

Had brekkie by 07.00 and by 07.20 we were in the car for a half hour drive to the Tantabiddi Boat Dock. Got there before the bus. Our guide rocked up and needed to row out to get the boat which was moored off-shore. He told us to leave our shoes on the beach and got us on. Basically two rows along each side next to the glass bottomed bit. The guide was an odd character - born in Poland, lived in Wales, America, Papua New Guinea and Australia. You can imagine the weird accent. But this fella knew the reef like the back of his hand. He was talking about the cousin of the Clownfish from "Finding Nemo" and immediately one came into view. He took us out about a mile off-shore - we passed over hundreds of fish and types of coral and we also saw a huge turtle.

He pulled up just away from the reef and told us we could all go snorkelling. Didn't need a second invite. Changed in seconds and dived in. We swam around 50 metres away from the boat and saw so many fish it's not true. At one point a Black Tipped Reef Shark swam underneath me. I didn't see him but Nikki did. Wow!

Got back into the boat after about 35 minutes - other people had seen sharks as well. We then headed out into deeper water and saw some much bigger fish. At the start of the trip the guide had told us there were two reasons that the area we were in was called the Killing Zone. The first one was because of the Cyclones they have in this region. It churns up and kills some of the coral. He said he'd tell us the second reason after we'd been swimming. He said the second reason is that there's a 6 metre Tiger Shark that lives in the area - didn't want to tell us before we went in the water! He said he'd had a group about 2 years ago who'd pulled up at the boat-dock and seen the Tiger Shark (called Tim incidentally) eat a fully grown turtle. He said not many were keen on going on the boat that day!

After the boat trip we headed down the coast to the Visitor Centre. This was the place that we were stranded in last year after I went swimming with the car keys. Nice to be able to drive in under our own steam. The woman in the gift shop made us a great, and much needed coffee and we chilled for a bit.

We then went down to the Oyster Stacks and to Turquoise Bay for our last couple of snorkels in Exmouth. Sad to leave - this is the life!

Headed back to town and sat in the garage and had burger and potato wedges - we were both in need of some carbs by this point.

Because of the early start we had a bit of a nap in the afternoon and woke up around 17.00ish. We were intending to go turtle watching at 20.00 so headed off to the Pot Shot for dinner. They didn't disappoint again. Made us a lovely pasta with tomato sauce.

Got to the Jarabi Turtle Centre at 20.00 and it seems word had spread - around 60 people turned up. They said it was one of their best evenings ever. They gave us a talk and then we headed off to the beach in 3 groups. We walked south and sat on the sand for a bit - no luck. Our guide then took us back north and suddenly stopped us. We all sat down on the sand and she said "look, there's a turtle coming". Now you have to realise it was pitch black by this point. Around half the group, including me and Nikki, sat intently watching this rock. At one point I was even convinced it was moving up the beach towards us. Sadly no - it was just a rock. We had no luck at all so called it a night around 22.00.

Headed back to the hotel. On the drive back we've been continually warned of the danger of Kangaroos. I suggested we count them. As the words left my mouth one shot out from the right - I slammed on the brakes and we skidded to a halt as the roo hopped in front of the bonnet by inches! I said "One." We counted a further 18 on the way home - it seems the sun goes down and the roos go crazy. Wouldn't like to be a night-time driver in Oz.

It's back to Perth for us tomorrow and then on to Dubai. It's been an amazing few weeks and feels like we've been away for months. We've crammed so much in - I think we'll need a holiday to recover!

Friday 8th February 2008

Exmouth to Perth

Nikki:- Woke around 06.00 - poor Huw not very well. He has a sore ear and had a rubbish night's sleep because of it.  Rang reception, and they said to pop along to the hospital in Exmouth which we did at around 08.00 (when the receptionist desk there opened). They were very friendly in the hospital, and gave Huw an appointment with the Dr at 10.15. We went back to the hotel, had some brekkie (Huw sucked a piece of toast to death as he was unable to chew), showered and packed the cases. I took a few final photos of the hotel, and we checked out at 09.45 and drove back to the hospital. Had a little bit of a wait before the Dr called us - he checked Huw's ears and throat before diagnosing a superficial ear infection and prescribing some drops. We asked about flying, but he said he should be OK - but to chew some gum or suck a sweet to help with the pressure. We drove to the pharmacist - had to wait 15 minutes for the drops, so we went next door to the bakery for a coffee and a SOFT cake in the meantime.

Huw:- Seems too much snorkelling gives you an ear infection - feels like there's a bloody fish in there. Can't chew so breakfast literally was gumming a piece of toast into submission. Had the first application of drops in the car outside the pharmacy - was told to lie flat for 3 minutes after they were put in so I looked dodgy as hell. Mind you the locals probably thought I was a drunk Larakin.

Did some final pictures around town - mostly of places we'd eaten so we can put them up on TripAdvisor when we get home.

Filled up with petrol and did the 30 minute drive down to Learmonth Airport. There is literally nothing in this region at all. Once you leave Exmouth, you get to the airport after half an hour and then it's 180 miles to the next town - and then 300 to the one after that. To say there's no development in Western Australia is an understatement. If it wasn't for the SkyWest flight into Learmonth then there'd be a 1200 mile drive to the nearest big town which is Perth.

As I write we are in the departure lounge at Learmonth waiting for our plane. Off the coast of WA there are hundreds of oil rigs - the riggers get a few days rest and relaxation in Perth. They get flown by helicopter to Learmonth and then catch the SkyWest flight down to Perth. There are about a dozen of them ordering, and consuming, huge amounts of alcohol. I guess it's the first chance they get for a beer after leaving the rigs which we assume are "dry".

The terminal at Learmonth is very odd. Come in through the front door and there are 2 SkyWest desks and a mural by local school kids. Then you walk through into a cafe area which has no windows - just mosquito netting. No air conditioning - just a couple of big fans on the wall, in 40 degree heat. That's it. From the cafe there's about a 50 yard walk to the plane and that's your lot! It's about an hour and a half down to Perth where we get a relaxing afternoon before the hell of a 04.00 alarm call tomorrow!

Saturday 9th February 2008

Perth to Dubai

Huw:- There's no two ways about it - 04.00 is an ungodly time. The alarm went off and then reception rang. Mad dash around and we were in reception by 04.30. The bloke behind reception then told us that our Emirates driver had rung to say he'd be 15 minutes late. Scottish chap rocked up at 04.45 and was very apologetic. Seems loads of flights had come in together and they'd been caught off guard - whatever that means. He said it was unavoidable - I suggested we discuss what the term unavoidable means. Calmed down after a few minutes and chatted with him happily all the way to the airport. He'd emigrated 40 years ago after coming to Australia with the Merchant Navy - said he fell in love with Fremantle and Perth. Still had a really strong Glaswegian accent though!

Now it's worth pointing this out at this stage - I love Emirates. They are, without doubt, the best airline I have ever flown with. They got us checked in within minutes of arriving. We then dealt with Aussie Immigration who check you on the way out and then went to the Emirates Lounge for breakfast. Absolutely lovely - loads of things for me to suck to death. Eggs, waffles, cereal, toast, you name it they pretty much had it. Our flight was at 07.00 and we were told we'd be boarding at 06.00 - seems that only applies to cattle class. We were invited to wander on to the plane at our leisure once all the unclean people had boarded. Business Class is 2-3-2 - me and Nikki had a 3 to ourselves. Leg room was so huge I couldn't touch the seat in front - not even slouched down at the end of my seat. They brought us gifts from the minute we got on. A new toilet bag each, glass of champagne or orange juice, menu for dinner, wine list, noise-cancelling headphones. Luckily we had the seat between us to put it all. The seat goes down a very long way - not quite flat, but not far off. Once we were underway I reclined fully and had a doze before being woken up for my breakfast. This was a 10 hour flight. We had breakfast, a snack, and then a full six-course meal. Nikki had 2 or 3 types of wine with each meal - I stuck to water and juice. Watched a few films - they had 700 channels to choose from, so there was no lack of choice. About an hour and a half from landing they started dinner. It was salad with parmesan to start, then goats cheese with sun dried tomatoes and aubergine etc - all served with a choice of breads. We thought we were done and then the stewardess appeared with our main course - ravioli with a tomato sauce, carrots and broccoli. Again I thought we were done but then it was Lemon Tart with a berry compote followed by Sorbet and a cheese board. And then coffee and hand-made Belgian chocolates. I think I put on a stone during the flight!

Just before getting off, Emirates gave us a Fast-Track card which gets us through Immigration at Dubai very quickly. When the plane landed at 13.00 local time, two air bridges were put up alongside the plane - the one for First and Business Class came first so we all got off - and then the one for Economy arrived a few minutes later. We got through Immigration, collected our bags and found our Emirates car within about 20 minutes - truly stunning. Sadly the man at Immigration forgot to collect our Fast Track cards so I now have two tucked away for future use! Whatever you say about the experience though - it's a change from the norm. We're back to economy on Virgin on Monday!

The Emirates driver took us to the Hilton Jumeirah where check in was swift to say the least. They brought us drinks while we checked in and then one of the valets called Simon took us and our luggage to our room. We're on the 7th floor overlooking some rather giant buildings. I thought a nice touch was that Paris Hilton had obviously been in every room making sure everything was just so - there were sea-shells on the bed!

And so a quick 2 hour nap to deal with the effects of jet-lag, so hopefully we'll be refreshed and raring to go in a bit - we'll see!

Nikki:- After a little nap, we went out to explore for a bit and take some piccies. The beach here is gorgeous, and laid out beautifully in front of the hotel, with loungers, bars, little tents with comfy sofas in, and a lovely pool. May just have to give that a go tomorrow! Had to wander to the next hotel for a cash point - they are still building and paving the road. Looks like they will be there for a while digging, as the site foreman rocked up with some huge lights. Luckily, the hotel is really well soundproofed so you are blissfully unaware of all this activity. We are on the 7th floor, in the executive level, so we popped up to the 9th floor where the lounge is. Again - lots of complimentary light bites and drinks set out for us. We also had a nose at the Bice bar on the 10th floor - amazing balcony! It was dark by this point, and the lights along the beach and in the Gulf were incredible. Took some pictures with a lower shutter speed to capture it - which came out really well.  Unfortunately we couldn't stay in the bar as Huw had shorts on (they are a bit particular about that in some places)

After our wander round the block, we came back to the room to find suitable clothing for the remainder of our stay in Dubai. Some ironing was unfortunately involved. We need to be smart for lunch tomorrow, so shoes were also cleaned and polished by housekeeping. Huw had a check for somewhere nice for tea that would provide soft manageable (yet still grown up) food. He found somewhere "in the shadow of the Burj", so we grabbed a cab and headed off. In Dubai there is the Burj al Arab and the Burj Dubai (which isn't built yet). As we are just up the road from the Burj al Arab, we thought it would be a quick journey, bit of tea then back to the hotel for an early night...unfortunately, this particular restaurant was under the shadow of the building site that is the Burj Dubai and is a good 45 minutes cab drive away. Bang went the early night. Also, the cab driver wasn't quite sure where we wanted to go, so had to stop for directions....We both had visions of being dropped off in the middle of nowhere! By this time, we were also extremely tired, having been up for over 24 hours. We did eventually get to the restaurant, and the food was very nice - but we weren't really enjoying it due to the tiredness. There is a brand spanking new hotel next to the centre where the restaurant is, so we went there to grab a cab to get back to the hotel. Even a fabulous 5 star hotel can't make up for being in the middle of nowhere though, and we had a considerable wait for a cab. This cabbie though drove us back to the Hilton in record time (adding more weight to the argument that the last cabbie didn't have a clue). Sooooo glad to be back in our little room, after a very, very, very long but enjoyable day.

Sunday 10th February 2008

Dubai

Nikki:- Marvellous night's sleep! Feeling a lot more alive this morning. Huw desperate for a coffee though...BAD news - we'd finished the coffee in the room yesterday. Phoned housekeeping for more, and also room service for a latte. Within 2 minutes, a little chappie was at the door with more coffee, sugar and milk and within 5 minutes another little chappie appeared with a late. One happy Huw. 

We showered and dressed and headed up for a lovely breakfast in the Executive Lounge, then spent a very relaxed couple of hours lying on Jumeirah Beach. Loads of staff around helping you with absolutely everything, from putting up of parasols to unfolding your towel for you. There is also a "Beach Butler" driving around in a little golf buggy on the beach. You have a little flag by your sunbed, and you wave it to attract his attention. Of course we had to do this to get a coffee for Huw and an OJ for me - even though the bar was only a stones throw away!!! THIS is the height of laziness!!!  

Watched a couple of camels wandering up and down the beach, giving rides to children (bit like Blackpool in that respect!). The beach also has a bouncy castle for the kiddies and loads of buckets and spades that they could just help themselves to! Great system too, where each parent is given a different coloured helium balloon to tie to their sunbed, so the children could always see where mum was. What a brilliant, but simple idea. We did put a toe into the sea each - bloody freezing after WA!!! So we haven't had a swim in the Gulf - more a cowardly paddle. 

Just after 12.00 we headed back to the room for a freshen up and a change into tidy 'acceptable' clothes and grabbed a cab to the Burj al Arab for lunch. Huw had pre-booked lunch there for us. You can't just rock up - you have to have a reservation just to get through the barrier at the beginning of the bridge to get there. Lots of security on the gates - we were given the all clear as we were 'on the list' and the barrier was raised for us - felt very privileged! The Burj is absolute, unashamed decadence. The footmen at the doors opened  the cab doors with a real flourish because of their flowing black robes. The foyer has a huge fountain, deep plush carpets, marble and more people offering assistance. You then go up a gold escalator (not just gold coloured you understand) to the foyer proper. This is AMAZING! It is open right up the top floor, with each balcony coloured with a different shade from indigo to yellow from floor to ceiling. Huw had previously been told in his correspondence with them that we were NOT under any circumstance allowed to photograph the foyer.  About a dozen Japanese people were stood around photographing everything that stood still and no-one was telling them off, so we joined in and did the same. We walked to the elevator and went up to the 27th floor to the Al Muntaha restaurant. Again, we were checked against 'the list' and allowed through the roped off area into the restaurant. The restaurant is in the sticking out platform near the top of the Burj, with uninterrupted views of the Gulf and the Dubai coast. Really felt like you were in a huge boat out in the middle of the sea - which we figured was how it was intended to feel by the (British) architect. Immaculate table settings and uniformed staff. We were served by about 5 different staff, which was a shame in a way as you didn't feel as 'looked after'. My God but we're fussy now! Anyway, we had a fabulous meal - really leisurely. Some people walked behind me to take pictures from the window near me....and they were quickly shooed away. Quite right too - can't have the unwashed disturbing my lunch can we!!!

Huw:- Lunch was very nice - a kind of Goat's Cheese Tart to start (Nikki's telling me it was a roulade). Then we had a kind of quiche (Nikki's telling me she agrees!) We had some nice breads and roast potatoes and buttered beans. I had an apple pie for desert while Nikki had a Raspberry thing. Now this is the world's first, and only, seven star hotel and I've got to say I wasn't blown away. I've had better service in other places in the UK and as for hotel service - I think the Hilton we're staying in at the moment isn't too shabby. The inside is massively ostentatious and the wealth is literally dripping from every nook and cranny. It's clearly meant as a vision for Dubai and in that I think it delivers - as a hotel/restaurant I was left with a feeling of "yeah, done that - what's next"

After we'd finished we grabbed a cab back to the hotel where I fell asleep for half an hour - well a Sunday nap isn't a bad thing. We're now heading out to the Mall of the Emirates for a look round. I reckon I need a gold throne for the front room or maybe a gold i-Pod. We'll see.

Monday 11th February 2008

Dubai to Home

Huw:- Some things take longer than others! I'm now writing the final entry in the Australia 2008 Blog on March 5th!

Well we got our taxi to the airport in Dubai ready for the Virgin flight. You REALLY notice the difference when you're down to go cattle class. Got screened before getting to the check-in area. At check-in decided to enquire about upgrading to Premium Economy. This was no problem but I then had to go back through pre-check-in security to pay for it. Obviously both times I needed to take my shoes off.

The other noticeable difference at Dubai Airport is how differently other airlines are treated. I mean airlines that aren't Emirates! The gate for our Virgin flight was a VERY long walk and involved even more security screening. By the time we got to the gate we were both hot and bothered and we hadn't had time to do the shopping we'd planned. Once they called our flight we were then bussed to the plane which took 20 minutes!

Got on board and heaved a sigh of relief - but not for long. Shortly after take-off the cabin crew announced that the in-flight entertainment was broken. This seems to be an increasing problem with Virgin - I haven't been on any of their flights recently where the entertainment system hasn't had to be reset. Well this time it was totally broken. So a 7 hour flight with nothing to keep me occupied. Luckily they figured out a way to play just two movies so at least that stopped me getting off!

Just before dinner they offered us a warm towel. I'm afraid we snobbily thought, "That's not a towel. At best it's a hanky. You should see Emirates - they have proper towels!"

Flight really did drag but we eventually arrived over London. Great views as we came up the Thames of the estuary and then Central London.

Landed without incident but were then told by the Captain that there was a problem with our gate so could we all please sit down again. He did it again to make sure we were all in our seats and then 6 armed policemen appeared. There was nothing wrong with the gate at all - they wanted us seated so the armed police could get to a bloke in Economy. No idea what he'd done but they looked very mean. I filmed it on my mobile phone and got shouted at!

After baggage claim we were met by Purple Parking with our car and headed home - that's probably the best place to draw the Australia 2008 Blog to a close.

It was an amazing holiday and, no matter how many great holidays we go on, I'll never take it for granted. We're so lucky to go on these trips - long may it continue.

Join us in January 2009 for the next instalment of Huw & Nikki's Great World Adventures!