New York & Puerto Rico
Dec 31st 2008 - Jan 5th 2009
Wednesday 31st December 2008
Home to New York
Well here we go again!!
Up at 04.15 for a very early start - not feeling too bad after an early-ish night. Got showered and scraped together a breakfast - the crust of a loaf of bread was all that was left. If we'd needed chocolate or mince pies then we'd have been fine, but sadly lacking on "normal" food! Actually I did quite well with a crust of bread. Nikki had an apple and a biscuit!
Headed off around 04.50. Roads amazingly quiet. Practically had the M40 to ourselves. Got to the Crowne Plaza for 05.50 and had to wait while Stuart complained about an item on his bill! Amazing. Never known him do that before!
Rang Purple Parking to say we'd be early - by the time we arrived at T3 they were pretty much waiting for us. All good.
Checked in and made our way through to the Upper Class Lounge and then - disaster. It was closed until 07.00. So we had to sit outside like Johnny-no-mates until they opened. At least they brought us a coffee.
Am now sitting in the quiet area at the back of the lounge writing this, while Nikki and Stuart have their "treatments". Nikki is having a manicure while Stuart is having a haircut - and then it'll be time for breakfast before our 09.20 flight.
(Later) Had a lovely breakfast - poached egg on toast for me, Eggs Benedict for Nikki and two bacon and sausage baps for Stuart. Lots of coffee and OJ.
Had asked Virgin for a buggy to take us to the gate and they delivered. Nice chap took all 3 of us at breakneck pace from outside the lounge right up to the gate. Then there was a delay while the aircraft was prepared.
Eventually got on and found our seats. 5, 6 & 7A. Very nice. Got settled and took off about half an hour late.
Stuart & I retired to the bar as gentlemen are wont to do. Took our seats feeling like 007 until the stewardess managed to tip an entire bottle of champagne - loads went on the floor and some on us. We expressed our displeasure and returned to our seats.
I watched a couple of movies - Ghost Town which was really good and House Bunny which wasn't. Started to watch What Happens in Vegas but didn't get to the end. Food was OK - nice soup, then a bit of a fussy kind of vegetable hotpot and a chocolate bread and butter pudding which was good. Just before landing they offered afternoon tea which was a warm scone, jam and clotted cream.
Got into JFK about 10 minutes early - very overcast with loads of snowploughs on the runway waiting for the forecast snow. Getting off was pretty straight forward and we were doing well until we got to immigration. Regular readers of our blogs will know there is a man wanted in the US for multiple homicides called Thomas James - well they still haven't caught him. I was sent to the naughty room. Luckily it was only for about 5 minutes before they worked out I wasn't a 6ft 2in man with a hunchback and one leg.
By the time we got out the front the snow was coming down - sideways. It was so windy. Hardly any cabs so had to stand shivering in the minus 2 temperatures until one came. After that a straight forward ride into Manhattan and arrival at The Barclay.
Had to wait a while for our King Suite to be ready - time we used wisely to have lunch and coffee. Checked into the room at around 14.45 and then me and Stuart headed back out to the Hotel New Yorker while Nikki had a sleep.
Now a few years ago we'd stayed in room 3804 at the New Yorker and we figured it would be a good thing to use that as our New Year's Eve base. They were expecting upwards of 3 million people in Times Square and once you are in - you are in! I'm too old for peeing into a bottle these days!
I'd spent ages on email with Kristina at the New Yorker trying to get this room - and she came through for us. The reason for the specific room demand will become clear when you see the pictures. It's on the 38th floor and has an amazing balcony meaning we can watch the fireworks and see the celebrations in Times Square in comfort. I passed on a tip for Kristina and the front desk rang her to come down so I could give it to her in person.
Then it was off to the shops to get supplies for the evening. Stuart met up with an old friend for coffee and I headed back for a much needed kip!
Didn't get a huge amount of sleep but nodded off for around an hour before getting ready for our 20.00 meet in the lobby. Grabbed a cab and headed across to the New Yorker and got into the room.
Unbelievably cold. The actual temperature was 16 degrees Fahrenheit which is around minus 8 Celsius but you needed to add the wind chill into that which took it down to nearly minus 16 Celsius. Put it this way - it was physically impossible for me to stay on the balcony for more than 3 minutes before my jeans started to freeze!
We put in an order with the Tick-Tock Diner for dinner - burgers all round - and then settled down for TV, nibbles and coffee.
Nikki went for a nap around 22.30 and then both me and Stuart fell asleep in front of the TV.
Stuck with ABC - they had the "Dick Clarke Rockin' New Year's Eve with Ryan Seacrest". Dick Clarke had been doing it for years until his stroke 4 years ago - still did some on screen stuff but the stroke had taken a huge toll on him. Had great fun poking fun at the voxes they were using from Times Square. Everything was "awesome", "amazing" or "I love you guys". Some people had been there since 06.00 - so an 18 hour wait in literally freezing temperatures!
Popped our Champagne at midnight and then went out on to the balcony to watch the fireworks. Surprisingly few over Midtown. Loads over Battery Park City and across in New Jersey. The ones in Times Square seemed quite subdued compared to Sydney and London.
By this point exhaustion was setting in so we cleared up and grabbed a cab from the front of the hotel. Now a million people coming down the road is quite an operation and I think we got the last cab out before the crowds got as far as 35th Street. I looked up 6th Avenue and saw a line of policemen walking arm in arm with the crowd behind them.
Took nearly 40 minutes to get back to The Barclay but at least we were in a warm cab. So knackered we just crashed into bed.
Excellent day!
Thursday 1st January 2009
New York to San Juan
There is literally NO part of me that doesn't ache!
Woke up at 08.15 feeling amazingly bright. Then got out of bed like a geriatric horse who's just run the London Marathon. After some groans and grumbles, me and Nikki went across to the Deli across from the hotel and got some coffee, OJ, bagels and muffins.
Back to the hotel to pack for stage 2 of this trip - Puerto Rico!
Checked out at 09.30 and got a cab to the airport. Very cold morning - the expected daytime high in New York was minus 3! Arrived at Terminal 8 at JFK just before 10.00. It's a brand new terminal so everything should run like clockwork.
Checked in for the flight to Puerto Rico and the check-in woman got confused and had to ring her supervisor. It was obvious something had come up on her screen about me when she scanned my passport but she wouldn't tell us. Made up some crap about checking birthdays because both me and Nikki had the same surname! You'd think they'd have an excuse already made up for that kind of situation.
Then it was on to security. God some Americans can be so obnoxious - and it seems they then get employed by the TSA at Kennedy. Firstly Stuart handed over his passport and boarding card and was then asked for photo ID. Then there was the arrogant, stroppy, unacceptable way the staff treat you. What's wrong with being cheerful about things rather than grunting and barking at you? Nikki asked for a chair to sit down to take her boots off and I think there was a real possibility she could have ended up in Guantanamo. My theory is that every great civilisation crumbles because of the arrogance of its authority. Now Dubai, India and China are being so welcoming to air passengers - the US drops down the list of desirable destinations because of the sheer hassle of travelling through their airports. I was tempted to say to one of the more obnoxious guards, "Listen mate, you messed it up on 9/11, not me. So don't take it out on me." But I didn't!
When I bought the Business Class flights to PR I was under the impression that this would get us into the Business Class Lounge. Apparently I was wrong - as was pointed out by the woman at the Business Class Lounge. Apparently those Business Class lounges are only available for those people who've joined or paid extra. It's an interesting concept and one that American Airlines could take further. Maybe we shouldn't assume that by buying a seat on a flight, you get a seat. So the Business Class lounge isn't for those travelling Business Class - who knew?
We had a disgruntled breakfast near the gate, made slightly worse by Chris de Burgh on the speakers above our heads. They were playing Now That's What I Call 1986 I think as we also had Jennifer Rush.
Got to the plane feeling very anti-American Airlines and then the clouds parted and the sun shone through (metaphorically you understand - gorgeous, but cold morning in reality).
The seats were big and roomy, the service was spectacular and the food was amazing. Proper knives and forks, real glasses, mugs of coffee, freshly warmed cookies. Excellent. Our flight attendant Jeff was very attentive - I'd say he was in his late-fifties and genuinely seemed pleased to have us on board.
Watched Cloverfield on the DVD player and watched the world go by outside.
Am writing this on the plane at the mo and getting excited about PR - today's weather forecast - dry with sunny spells and highs of 80!
Landed in Puerto Rico at around 17.00 - about an hour early. Result. Very funny while waiting to get off the plane - a chap rushed forward from economy trying to be the first off when the doors opened. Everyone huffed and puffed at him - and then they opened the door from whence he'd just come!
Could feel the heat as soon as you walked into the air-bridge. Seemed like quite a small airport so found baggage reclaim easily enough and then got a cab to the hotel.
Now the Intercontinental is not that far - I'd say about 300 yards from the terminal building! Took about 5 minutes in the cab. Check in was quite easy - but slow. They don't seem to crack on here in the Caribbean! Room nice - not the standard we had at the Intercontinental in New York but perfectly useable. We're in 706 with a sea view which is lovely.
Decided to head out for some dinner after a quick rest and ended up over the road in a Ponderosa. Long queue and filled with what we now refer to as "Ponderosa" type people. We stayed in the queue because they had an amazing looking salad bar and we weren't disappointed. Loads of salad later we struggled back to the hotel for coffee in the lobby before crashing out at about 21.30. No staying power!
Friday 2nd January 2009
San Juan
Brilliant night's sleep, followed by a VERY relaxed breakfast in the hotel. Nice!!! Rang Huw's Mum and Dad to wish them a Happy Anniversary - it's sleeting at home! Then headed out to the beach, and hired a 'cabana' (aka 'tent') by the pool. With this - you get the posh towels, a fluffy towelling cushion and an ice bucket with bottles of water. Didn't need to worry too much about the sun tan lotion as we were nicely in the shade. Just as it should be! Quite breezy, but sunshine all day. Massive change from 24 hours previously!
The pool was literally 2 steps away from our sun beds - we all dipped the obligatory toes in - then quickly made the long walk back to our loungers! Huw did get all the way in and had a swim. V. brave, and received a respectful round of applause from myself and Stuart. At the other side of our section of the pool was a tall rocky outcrop, encasing smaller raised pools and a waterfall - which were utilised by many a passing bird for a quick bath. Stuart took pictures of this to e-mail to friends and colleagues (not to gloat at all you understand!). Had an e-mail back asking how was it on Tracey Island??!!?
Extremely lazy morning spent listening to iPods (if only to drown out the background music - eclectic didn't cover it!) Around 13.30ish we staggered down to the beach (we had to wear special wristbands that would gain us access back into the hotel complex). The intention was to have a quick swim in the sea before having a well deserved lunch. Reality check - we all paddled - decided it was far too cold, then went back to the hotel restaurant on the beach. Stuart and I had salads and Huw had cheese quesadillas. Quite pricey but generally an OK meal. Disgusting coffee to follow.
More relaxing by the pool followed - such a hard life. Decided to go back to our rooms, change and go out for tea - had a cab to the Plaza de las Americas - a huge complex of shops and restaurants (the biggest in the Caribbean) about 30 minutes from the hotel. Did a spot of shopping - well Huw did. He got a new pair of sandals (at long last!!!) Had a pretty unremarkable meal there and then got a cab back to the hotel. We walked across the road to the supermarket for milk and supplies - looked like the place had been ransacked before our arrival - but no - this is how it normally looks! Just bought milk and Coke Zero, then walked back to the hotel. By this time I was practically sleep walking, so I went to bed. Huw and Stuart went back down to the bar for more wine, women and song .....well coffee anyway! Another good day.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned until now - whistling tree frogs!!! Fabulous!!!
Saturday 3rd January 2009
San Juan
Great nights sleep - woke up around 08.30 and got ready for breakfast. It had obviously been raining overnight as everything was wet.
Breakfast place was quite full so they put us in a private room away from all the other tourists. They either think we are that sort of people or we smell - one or the other!
After breakfast we picked up our hire car and set off on our trip to Ponce. It's described in the tour books as a charming, rustic town on the south of the island with spectacular swimming beaches.
Great drive to get there - up through the mountains. Easy drive with some spectacular scenery. Pulled off the road at one point where we saw loads of locals taking pictures through the trees. Asked them what they were doing and they pointed out that the two mountains were shaped like breasts! Apparently they are famous!
So doubled up with laughter about booby mountains we made our excuses and left!
Got into Ponce and first impressions were wonderful. Then we got lost. Couldn't find Ponce Beach for love nor money - ended up driving around the port with a huge container ship looming over us.
Got there eventually and it was horrible! Nice boardwalk but that was about it. Used the toilets and left!
Figured it was worth going into Ponce to see the gorgeous town square - and it was horrible. Loads of discount stores and dollar shops. Didn't stay!
Eventually figured out how to escape and drove back along the motorway to the nearest Burger King for lunch before heading back to a rainy San Juan. Seems it had been raining all day but stopped as we got back.
Got pulled over by the police for doing 67 in a 55. He didn't speak English and we didn't speak Spanish so after some finger waving and blank looks he gave up and we went on our way - a bit more slowly!
As I handed back the Avis car, the woman asked how our day was. I said we'd been to Ponce and she said "Rough town". Thanks a lot - could have told us that before we went there!!!
Had some down time and then met up in the lobby to dinner. Went next door to the ESJ or El San Juan Hotel. It has a great shopping/restaurant mall. We found an Italian place that did some excellent food including a great selection of ice-cream. Sat and put the world to rights over an excellent meal.
And so to bed - knackered AGAIN!
Sunday 4th January 2009
San Juan
(Nikki)
Sunny, warm day but breezy. Lots of white breakers on the sea this morning. Stuart has already rung to say we are to meet him in the lobby just before 9.15. He has arranged a private room again for our breakfast (got to love his platinum membership of IHG Rewards). All is peaceful here - apart from the occasional bird and the planes arriving/departing from the airport around the corner. Tree frogs have gone to bed now - so all is quiet on the whistling front.
Poor Huw has a bite on his right ankle - the local insect life obviously enjoy his company. I'm very lucky in that they don't find me as tasty.
Had a mug of coffee already this morning - thanks to our lovely maid who left us some extra packs for the machine. Already started thinking about breakfast. Didn't think I would ever want food again after last evening's wonderful feast - but here I am munching on Doritos as I can't possibly be expected to live through the next 10 minutes until breakfast.
(Huw)
After a leisurely breakfast we headed down to the beach for some more well-earned rest. Got our umbrellas and sun-beds set up and settled down for some relaxing.
After about half an hour the decision was taken to go into the sea. Now it's not as rough as let's say Bondi Beach, but the breakers are enough to knock you off your feet. Excellent fun and quite warm as well. All got knocked over a few times before giving up after about 15 minutes and retiring to our sun-beds!
Stayed there until lunch and then decided to head back to the pool for the afternoon session. Got a Cabana again and also picked up the laptop and iPods. Launched www.lobbybobby.com as we said we would and then I fell asleep for a bit.
Another dip in the pool - much colder than the sea - and then a quick dip in the Jacuzzi brought the afternoon to a pleasant close!
Back in the room I zonked out for about 2 hours before we met in the lobby for our evening meal.
Had heard that a place called La Fontana di Roma was pretty good so decided to give that a blast. Got a cab to the Howard Johnson hotel - the Fontana is on the top floor.
(Nikki)
Wonderful views from the restaurant - huge windows all around, so every table had a brilliant view. We went for a table facing the Laguna and the airport. Completely dark by now, so everywhere lit up - including the simply fabulous Christmassy lights still up in the restaurant. Apparently there is another festival tomorrow "Three Kings Day", which is why the decorations are still up everywhere.
Very attentive waiters - very nice meal, Stuart had pumpkin soup followed by spaghetti Bolognese, Huw had tomato and onion salad and wild mushroom risotto, I had spinach salad (originally brought with bacon on it - soon remedied) and the mushroom risotto also. We then opted for coffees and no desserts as we were all pleasantly full by then - (the entire day then completely ruined by them bringing me a cappuccino with cinnamon sprinkled all over it!!!!! Absolute travesty!!!)
Waited in the lobby for a cab back down to our hotel - there was a bit of negotiation going on with another couple there. They wanted the cab to take them somewhere else (even though we were there first), but they decided to come to our hotel as well once they found out there was a casino there! We said we'd share the cab with them - but when we arrived they just got out and left us to pay without so much as a thank you!!! Bloody people! Hope they lost their shirts in the casino.
All very tired on arrival back at the hotel - I went to bed and instantly fell asleep (still in cinnamon shock), and the guys went back to the lobby for coffees and whatever else gentlemen get up to.
Monday 5th January 2009
San Juan to Home
(Nikki)
Bit of a lie in 'till 07.00 - I got up and showered. Made a start on the packing (boo). Made coffee for Mr Huw and went over the arrangements for the day.
Lovely breakfast again, packing and a last look at the view/beach before heading off to the airport. Our American Airlines flight to New York leaves at 12.55, and then we will have gained an hour, as New York is 1 hour behind Puerto Rico. Then hanging around in the Virgin lounge at JFK is planned until the Virgin flight to London at 22.25.
Left the hotel at around 11.00ish, had a cab to the airport, which took all of 10 minutes!
Checked in with American Airlines - not a nice experience - lots of queuing and being treated like criminals. We then had to go through the ultimate indignity of security - absolutely horrible! Sense of humour bypasses x infinity!!! Didn't even get a chair to assist with removal of shoes - they also confiscated our water etc as expected (although it had gone through perfectly fine previously). All 3 of us seriously fed up by the time we got to the plane. Stuart had been trying (unsuccessfully) to reserve an exit aisle seat on this leg of the journey - asking to see supervisors at every opportunity - but sadly to no avail. Poor thing had to suffer a normal bog standard economy seat - with his knees right up against the seat in front. (I never have this problem, but totally appreciate how much of an insult this would be!). No food on the plane - they did offer a few snacks - but you had to pay for them!!! Drinks were free, but they only came round once on a 3.5 hour flight. NO-ONE CAME TO BRING ME A GLASS OF CHAMPAGNE!!! My now compulsory part of any flight experience.
What can I say - we struggled through with the assistance of iPods and iPhones and the knowledge that this was a means to an end and that the Virgin lounge was waiting for us!!!
The flight eventually came to an end - lot cooler when we de-planed in New York. Grey sky and blimmin' freezing! Had a wait for about 17 hours at baggage reclaim (well - it felt like it anyway!!!) and then we made our way - via the sky-train from the God-awful place that was Terminal 8 to Terminal 4. As soon as we approached the Virgin desk then our day took a turn for the better! Very helpful and friendly staff - check in was a breeze and no queue whatsoever for Upper Class! We then walked across the concourse to the - much awaited - Virgin lounge. Heaven!!! Someone brought me my glass of champagne - so I was happy - Prince playing on the PA - so Huw was happy, special meal order for Stuart with the assistance of the manager - so Stuart happy!!! What a difference an airline makes! All of us have VOWED to boycott American Airlines for the rest of our lives! A fabulous meal was enjoyed by all - utterly BRILLIANT waitress called Pepper who was absolutely wonderful! We didn't want for anything - THIS is how it should be!!!
(Huw)
Got taken down to the gate at around 21.25 and got ourselves settled on the plane. Seemed like no time until they closed the doors and we were off. Very shallow take off with some odd noises and we seemed to fly around very low over Jamaica Bay for quite a while. Did worry they were going to announce that we'd have to go back to the airport - but no, we were soon on our way.
Watched a bit of TV while eating some soup, cheese & biscuits and coffee and then turned in for the night. Got quite a bit of sleep but kept waking up and dozing off again. Got woken up just off the coast of Ireland for breakfast.
Came in over the Bristol Channel with a great view of the Severn Bridges and flew up the M4 before a very straight forward landing. Had to wait for our gate (no surprise there!). Got our bags and popped into the Virgin Revivals lounge for a nose before getting the car and driving home.
What a great holiday - but one of extremes. Freezing in New York, boiling in Puerto Rico and freezing back in the UK!
And so - back to work!